Showing posts with label columbia river. Show all posts
Showing posts with label columbia river. Show all posts

Friday, December 12, 2025

Lewis & Clark State Park

Next up we're visiting Lewis & Clark State Park, at the west end of the Columbia Gorge just across the Sandy River from downtown Troutdale. Let me start off by saying this post is not an adventure through pristine wilderness; the the park's essentially a glorified highway rest area -- it officially opened in October 1955 along with the nearby segment of I-84 -- surrounded by a few recreation options. (The park is classified as a "State Recreation Site", if we're going to split hairs.) The park is best known as a Sandy River access point for fishing and boating, and the high bluffs above the river have become a popular rock climbing spot in recent decades. The park is not famous for hiking, but it does have a few trails, and that's what we're here to check out. None of them are very long and most are easy, but one has sort of a weird mystery associated with it, which we'll get to in a bit. And don't miss the historical odds and ends down at the bottom, stuff that didn't fit anywhere else.

  1. Lewis & Clark Nature Trail
  2. Broughton Bluff Trail
  3. Lewis & Clark Trail No. 400

So the first trail, and the only one with a sign, is the "Lewis & Clark Nature Trail", which is a mostly-paved loop around the landscaped "rest area" part of the park, with a few signs describing various native plants. In practice I imagine it's largely used by people and dogs who need a stretch after a long drive along I-84. When I started writing this post I sort of assumed the trail and the dated, weathered sign were original features of the park, but it turns out they were added in 1980 for the 175th anniversary of the Lewis & Clark expedition camping here for a bit in November 1805. And yes, a bit of my surprise is due to being of just the right age where 1955 is ancient history, while 1980 is a year I have clear childhood memories of, and therefore things from then cannot possibly look dated or weathered. (And yes, I have yet another birthday this month, why do you ask?)

An April 1980 Oregon Journal article described the upcoming trail:

When completed, the trail will feature many of the 150 flowers, shrubs, and trees identified and described by Capts. Meriwether Lewis and William Clark in their journals which, besides an account of their travels, were a compendium of scientific data covering botany and other disciplines. The one-half mile loop trail, with a gravel covering, is in place and site preparation has been finished. Only a start has been made on the plantings.

The article then notes that they only had Oregon grapes in place so far, but a vine maple was coming soon. The article continued:

Plans are in progress for various planting areas to be “adopted” by garden clubs, civic and educational groups, each to plant and maintain its own plot. Twenty-two such groups have been enlisted so far. ... The nature trail is a project of the Oregon Lewis and Clark Trail Committee, chaired by Dr. E.G. Chuinard, Portland orthopedic surgeon. Dr. Chuinard is a nationally known Lewis and Clark scholar, and the trail has been a dream of his for many years.

The article goes on to mention that, as an orthopedic surgeon, he was proud that the new trail would be wheelchair-accessible, at least by the pre-ADA standards of 1980. Chuinard later wrote a book that more or less combined his professional and personal interests “Only One Man Died, the Medical Aspects of the Lewis & Clark Expedition”

An August 1979 Oregonian article described the proposal in similar terms, adding that this would be a great new use for the park, replacing the overnight campground that had been there since the park opened. Apparently the campground was considered a nuisance and drew 'undesirable' people to the area, though I'm not sure whether that meant partiers or something worse. A November 1978 letter to the Oregon Journal opposing removal of the campground explained that it was the only low-income camping option for people passing through the area in the summer, and Ainsworth was (and is) the closest alternative, much further from Portland and Troutdale. The Oregonian article went on to quote someone with the State Parks Division who hoped they'd be able to get rid of the adjacent dirt bike area just north of the park as that was considered a nuisance too.

1979, the oregonian editorialized in favor of the trail. The editorial board may not have paid close attention to the proposal up to this point, and it's hard to imagine a bunch of cynical old-school newspapermen caring a whit about gardening, but one historical constant about the Oregonian, from the 1850s to the present day, is that they will always endorse any proposal that involves being mean to poor people, whether as a deliberate goal, or as foreseeable collateral damage. So with this editorial, the project was virtually a done deal.

The nature trail was dedicated in October 1980. For the big event, the paper interviewed Roger Mackaness, a Corbett landscape architect, nursery owner, and part-time Job Corps instructor, who was handling the practical side of the project, translating Chuinard's daydream into an actual garden full of live plants.

“I can’t guarantee that anything will grow”, said Mackaness, explaining that certain plants such as sagebrush and prickly pear have to be grown from seed. “Eastern Oregon plants take special care.” Varieties of plants to be found on the trail include cliff dwellers, desert lovers, high mountain and shore plants, he said. Making the task even more difficult, the plants will be ordered in the manner in which Lewis and Clark discovered them, and each planting will be landscaped to mirror the topography found in the plant’s natural habitat. “This will be a trailhead for a 90 mile hike to The Dalles”, Mackaness said. “In the 1/4 mile nature trail you could see the same kind of plant life you’d see if you hiked to The Dalles.”

The article goes on to explain that the plantings should be complete in another two years or so. An Oregonian article on the trail dedication notes that the trail had been in the works since 1974, and the very first mention of it I saw came in a 1975 article by Chuinard, which mentions that a group in Charlottesville, VA was proposing an "all the Lewis & Clark plants" garden there.

In April 1982, a Lewis and Clark mini-garden opened at the Oregon Zoo, featuring some of the same plants, with Chuinard and other members of the trail committee in attendance. The Journal assured readers that

The new garden also is intended to complement, not compete with, the nature trail at Lewis and Clark State Park near the mouth of the Sandy River, which, when completed, will have examples of all or most of the plants identified in the Oregon country by the famous explorers. A sign in the zoo garden calls attention to the Sandy River project.

It's not clear what happened after that, as the Oregon Journal went out of business later that year and they covered the garden effort much more closely than the Oregonian ever did. Probably the same thing that often happens with efforts that start as one person's dream and that rely on volunteers to keep going. Especially when that one person was already a retiree and eventually retires "for real" from civic efforts too and moves out of the area to be near family, as the Chuinards did in 1987. He had already moved on to a new project at that point, trying to persuade the city to build a Lewis and Clark museum out at Kelley Point Park. He and the committee had originally wanted to build the museum here, piggybacking on a proposed ODOT port of entry, as Chuinard explained in a 1984 op-ed in the Oregonian.

He argued this was a great location for a museum (although the State Parks Division and environmental groups disagreed) and a logical follow-up for the still-incomplete nature trail. The museum would have been located in the still-barren 12 acre plot north of the 'main' park, between the railroad and I-84, which I think is where the county's short-lived offroad motorcycle park was located during the 1970s. an August 1985 article has more details about the proposal.

The problem with the trail, Chuinard said, is that the flowers do not bloom at the same time, and most are not at their peak during the short season of pleasant weather in the Columbia Gorge, when visitors are not subjected to rain or the cold east wind.

Which is true of the entire Northwest, frankly. He went on to suggest that we were rapidly falling behind Washington State in both quantity and quality of Lewis & Clark visitor centers, which is an odd sort of arms race to have. But I suppose that was how things got funded in 1984.

The present-day trail does not exactly look as though it has 22+ garden clubs and civic groups avidly maintaining their individual plots. Some of the signage has been updated fairly recently, though, possibly for the Lewis & Clark bicentennial in 2005. One of the newer signs concerns native medicinal plants, and has a sidebar snarking about the Lewis & Clark expedition dosing themselves to the gills with mercury and other toxic patent medicines of the era, I guess for a little contrast. Which is a fair point, and not one a circa-1980 sign would have mentioned, necessarily, even if the nature trail's main proponent wrote an entire book on the subject.


The second trail is an obvious but unnamed trail that heads south and upward from the landscaped area. This is the access trail for the popular rock climbing area along the southwest-facing part of Broughton Bluff. This area is enormously popular when weather permits, which was not the case the day I visited. Which is great if (like me) you just want to take photos of the rocks and not try going up them. I only followed the trail to the point where you're looking almost straight down at the old Columbia River Highway bridge over the Sandy River, but I gather it dead-ends at the state park property line, not much further south from there. The potentially-climbable cliffs continue for a while south from there, but they're on private property and it seems the owners don't want the liability issues, and also don't want to sell. In terms of the trail having other features, there's one small and (as far as I know) unnamed waterfall along the way. I don't know whether it runs year round or it's just seasonal. Either way, I can't say it's worth going out of your way to see if you aren't there to climb any rocks, given all of the vastly better hiking options a few miles to the east. Small bit of trivia here, the place is named for a junior officer on the the George Vancouver expedition who made it roughly this far upriver, and is best known for naming Mt. Hood and Mt. St. Helens, along with a bunch of other names that didn't stick, like calling the Sandy the "Barings River", after the British bank that imploded in 1995 after a rogue trader lost all their money. Broughton didn't name the bluff after himself, though. That came later, after a 1926 lobbying campaign by local Girl Scouts.

In addition to the main trail, a scramble route goes to the top of the bluff, starting right at the point where the main trail rounds the sharp corner from the north face of the bluff to the southwest face. I only found out this existed afterward so I don't have any photos from the top, but blog posts at Casing Oregon and Columbia River Gorgeous include photos from up there, and a video from TheCascadeHiker shows both trails, first the main one, then backtracking to the one to the top. Unfortunately the park boundary also runs along or very close to the top of the bluff so you can't really go anywhere once you've made it to the top. A century ago (early November 1920) you could take a streetcar here from downtown Portland, climb the bluff (which went by "Troutdale Butte" back then) and then east and up to the top of Chamberlain Hill and back, but I get the impression that hikers and climbers and random tourists wore out their welcome here decades ago. In any event it's just ordinary farm country up there once you're away from the edge, and not one of those weird Venezuelan islands in the sky, especially not the kind with dinosaurs. Could be worse, though; if Portland's urban growth boundary didn't exist, the entire top of the bluff would likely be a nasty gated community full of ugly McMansions, and security goons from the HOA would pour boiling oil down on anyone who dared to climb here. So there's that.

As it is, the top of the bluff is just ordinary farm country growing normal farm products. It did have one brief brush with semi-importance back in 1961, when the top of Broughton Bluff was part of an elaborate surveying project by the US Coast & Geodetic Survey, the agency behind all of those pre-GPS vintage survey markers. This project involved a team of engineers, families in tow, traveling from place to place, marking and surveying, building and disassembling survey towers, measuring and remeasuring until the exact position of everything was nailed down to 1/300th of an inch, then going somewhere else and starting the process all over again, like the world's nerdiest traveling circus. I imagine that probably made for a weird childhood. The article mentions that the survey had been delayed by higher-priority projects like laying out Cold War missile bases.

September 1974 article on climbing here, mentions in passing that there are a few other things to do, like smelt dipping (no longer possible since the smelt runs collapsed in the 80s), camping (replaced by the garden), and dirt bike riding (also abolished, and replaced by an empty lot). While chain smoking or working your way through a case of Blitz beer or both whenever you had a hand free.


And finally, at the far corner of the landscaped triangle, an unsigned trail heads east into the forest, and off the edge of most maps of the park. It's clearly a "real" trail, constructed by people who knew what they were doing, and not just a random use path, and it seems to get some level of regular maintenance, and you get the distinct impression that a trail like this is bound to go somewhere interesting, sign or no sign. So you keep going, doing a roughly flat, roughly straight traverse east, part of the way up the bluff and parallel to I-84 and the railroad (which you are never out of earshot of). But after a couple of miles it just sort of fades out and ends, and you can either turn back at that point or try bushwhacking further for a while and then turn back. The only real destination along the way is a stretch with several house-sized boulders toward the end of the (obvious) trail, known to local climbers as "The Zone". I can't say it's an amazing nature experience, but if you think of it as more of a very easterly city park along the lines of Portland's Forest Park, it's actually not that bad. I feel like I need to say this because the OregonHikers page about the trail snarks about it (which is quite uncharacteristic for them), saying they only did it just for the sake of completeness.

So why is there a trail here, if it just sort of ends at a random spot in the forest? That isn't typically what trails do. One clue is that although there's no sign for the trail in the park, if you look at the right maps you'll see occasional scattered references to it here and there calling it the "Lewis and Clark Trail 400" or some variation thereof. (I'm almost positive the name also appeared on an official PDF map of the park at one point, but I can't seem to find a link to that map now.) The "400" is the key detail: Under the longstanding trail numbering scheme in the Gorge (which I think is a Forest Service thing, although some trails on state land use it as well in the name of consistency), trails are all numbered 400-something, (other than the Gorge bit of the Pacific Crest Trail, which is #2000 for its whole length), and the number 400 was reserved early on for a hypothetical east-west trail stretching 90 miles or so from Portland out to Hood River or possibly The Dalles, depending on who you ask. This trail has never really existed over that full distance, but a few segments do, and it's slowly grown (and occasionally shrunk) over time when people take an interest in the idea for a while and funding becomes available. A couple of segments further east are known as the Gorge Trail #400, which I'm sure I've mentioned here once or twice. So right now the official west end of the westernmost existing chunk of Gorge Trail is at Angels Rest, which is obviously nowhere close to Troutdale, and that's how it's been for decades. That is, except for the obscure bit of dead-end trail we're visiting here. Which I guess makes it the trail equivalent of a freeway ghost ramp.

Note that Trail #400 is not the same thing as the under-construction Historic Columbia River Highway trail. It covers more or less the same ground but is a very different proposal, a paved path aimed primarily at road cyclists, often immediately next to the freeway, and encompassing surviving bits of the old highway where possible. I've walked on a few parts of it, and it's fine, I guess, but it's nobody's idea of a relaxing nature experience. And since the entire theme of the effort is around the old highway, the initial part of the route involves riding on the old road, sharing it with Winnebagos and monster SUVs and so forth. Which is not doable at all if you're on foot.

It's also not the same thing as the Hatfield Memorial Trail, which is supposed to be an east-west backcountry route, staying as far away from civilization as possible under the circumstances. A trail along these lines was proposed by the Sierra Club way back in 1971, and a fairly long route can be assembled out of parts of several existing trails, though some of these trails receive little or no Forest Service maintenance and it's an ongoing struggle to keep them from being taken back by the forest.

An early version of that idea (or part of it) was the proposed Talapus Trail, which would have connected Larch Mountain to Wahtum Lake by way of the Bull Run Watershed, a large area that's normally closed to all public access because it's the primary source of Portland's drinking water supply. I am not sure how that was supposed to work, whether they were going to tweak the closure boundary or just accept that a few backcountry hikers wouldn't be a problem, or they just hadn't figured that out yet. The notion being kicked around as early as 1974 (back when calling it "Hatfield Memorial" would have alarmed Senator Hatfield), and an August 1980 article was already looking ahead to a third east-west linkage once Gorge Trail #400 and the Talapus route were done and dusted. This third route would have run right along the Columbia shoreline, which isn't even on anyone's long-term ideas list anymore, as far as I've seen. It always shocks me to see how many grand plans of the 60s and 70s came to a crashing halt on election day 1980; I'm sure that there were a few clunker ideas in there, but I'd love to go visit the timeline where the entire Reagan Administration never happened, and the wingnuts and their ideas never took over, and just see how the year 2020 played out over there versus here. It can't have been worse, anyway

The notion of a Trail 400 that specifically started here seems to have burst onto the scene in 1979 with the state's new Columbia Gorge parks master plan, which envisioned what it called a "low-level gorge trail":

Proposed development of trail head parking for the "low level gorge trail", which, when fully completed, will complete a link for hikers from Troutdale to The Dalles, a distance of 90 miles. Portions of the trail have been completed, but access through some western properties is still being examined.

Toward the end of the article it mentions that funding was uncertain, and construction probably wouldn't begin until 1981-83 on any of the listed projects, and that was dependent on federal money coming through. Other interesting and sadly unbuilt ones include a trail between Rooster Rock and Latourell Falls, and a railroad underpass connecting Wahkeena Falls and Benson State Park. The plan mentions that the old Rooster Rock Wagon Road -- which we visited a few years ago in the Palisade Falls post -- would connect to the low-level trail as it passed through the area.

So the first problem with the trail and the rest of these grand plans was the date: 1979 was immediately before Ronald Reagan was elected and began slashing non-military budgets, and stomping on anything that looked vaguely environmental just to spite the hippies. The envisioned construction period also overlapped with Oregon's deep multiyear recession of the 1980s. So without money or political interest, the project fell by the wayside and has never been revived, just like other grand projects of the 1970s like switching to the metric system.

As for why it stops where it does, the current trail extends past the eastern edge of the park and out onto Forest Service land for a while, and remains largely federal as far as the Corbett area other than some assorted bits of ODOT-owned land and one stretch owned by the Union Pacific railroad. It's as if the state built as much as they could on their own and then the feds never picked up the baton. As for the railroad bit, I didn't see anything saying they were blocking the proposal, which I think would've been newsworthy if that had happened. I did see that they'd tried subdividing it into residential(?) lots at one point but didn't sell any of them, and the land hasn't been buildable since 1986 due to National Scenic Area rules). So maybe they'd still be up for selling that area, or at least doing an easement for a trail, though I obviously have no way to know that.

November 1981 - Multnomah County closed a mile of Henderson Road between Latourell & Bridal Veil, though holding on to the old right-of-way to maybe become part of trail #400 someday. The article mentions that the old road had once been part of the 1870s wagon road between the Sandy River and The Dalles. I gather the steep, long-closed, long-forgotten (but again never-vacated) Latourell Hill Road was once part of the old wagon route too, but I don't know if it was ever envisioned as a trail route.

Small calendar item from September 30th 1983, noting volunteers could come join a "work party clearing new low-level Gorge Trail No. 400 east from Lewis & Clark State Park".

Further east, the state was trying to arrange a land swap with the federal Bureau of Land Management for land further east along the proposed trail route; the article describes the 2 mile long parcel as 100 acres of steep north-facing bluffs next to the rail line, but I can't pin down which parcel they're talking about or who owns it now. The Friends of the Columbia Gorge was strongly opposed to the idea. It seems that a couple of rare and potentially endangered plants were known to live in the area: Sullivantia oregana and Dodecatheon dentatum, and the Friends figured they would no longer be protected properly with the plants in state hands. Thinking BLM would do a better job than the state would of protecting the environment seems a bit odd in the 2020s but maybe things were different back then.

The trail also ran into a degree of local opposition, as the park had a sketchy reputation back in those days, beyond the usual urban legends about highway rest areas. The trail was proposed around the same time the campground was removed, and the county-run dirtbike park next door was still there, and rural residents to the east found it easy to imagine the trail would funnel an urban crime wave in their direction. For example, a 1979 article about a longtime resident of the tiny town of Latourell (it's just downhill from Latourell Falls, but not visible from the Gorge highway) raised concerns about a proposal in the new state plan to turn a local historic house into a youth hostel for people through-hiking the new trail. Local residents strongly opposed the idea, the word "youth" being even more loaded then than it is now.

As another example, a 1982 article lamenting that 37 different government agencies were involved in managing the Sandy River area. mentioned rowdy campers at Dodge Park as one of the issues facing the area, holding all-night beer parties and such and driving away respectable visitors. A State Parks representative mentioned that similar problems had receded at Lewis & Clark after the campground had been removed. Other people wanted to talk about habitat protection, but the paper reported that toward the end, after the lurid stuff and the riling people up about big gummint bureaucrats.

By 1984 the Oregonian was wringing its hands again about the now campground-free, dirtbike-free park, as the area nearby saw its second homicide in as many years. I haven't looked up the news stories about those but it sounds like both were related to arguments between transients. The mayor of Troutdale was freaking out and blaming the park, conveniently outside city limits. A spokesman for the county sheriff's office explained that "Other than those two murders, we have no phenomenal problem at Lewis and Clark state park", to which the mayor responded "Don't you think one murder a year is too much?", as if this was now a long term trend. The article went on to lump in a recent homicide at a truck stop half a mile away, a sexual assault in Troutdale Community Park (now Glenn Otto Park) three years earlier, and the general unruly crowd atmosphere at Glenn Otto as if those were valid data points about Lewis & Clark being scary. I've complained before about how bad crime reporting was in the 80s, but it still startles me. Nobody was even trying to figure out actual cause and effect, just pointing fingers at everything randomly and freaking out even further when that approach didn't move the needle.

Despite all that, the effort forged ahead for another couple of years. Here's a 1985 interview with the Oregon State Parks regional administrator. The article explains that a trail from Troutdale to Hood River had been a longtime dream of his, noting however that some of the remaining parts would be expensive, like at Tooth Rock west of Eagle Creek. There's also a bit about another then-ongoing project to build a four-mile trail between Bridal Veil and Latourell Falls, with improved views of the falls at Shepperds Dell, which I imagine would have doubled as another Trail #400 segment. Seems this was never constructed either, which is a shame. The interview was in conjunction with the grand opening of another Gorge Trail segment further east, between Ainsworth and Yeon State Parks. Unfortunately that entire segment was destroyed by an enormous landslide in 1996 and has never been rebuilt.

Someone giving a presentation about the proposed trail at Portland State in 1986.

The 1986 talk was the last mention of the proposal that I could find in the newspaper archives, but I still had several open questions, like exactly what the intended route was, for example. I ended up looking for old planning documents to see if they offered any more clues, and luckily the 1994 state parks plan for the Gorge mentions the proposed trail a few times. (For whatever reason, all of the state parks department's master plan archives vanished off the net sometime in the last few months as part of a site redesign. But as usual, Archive.org has our back, or mine anyway.) From page 15:

Trail connections and/or trailhead development is proposed for a low elevation route from Lewis and Clark to the OPRD properties just west of Hood River via segments of the HCRH and via other new routes, and from the east side of Hood River to Mosier along the Historic Columbia River Highway (HCRH) to Mosier.

and then on page 26:

Trail use continues to be popular in the Gorge especially at the higher elevations. There has been an effort by recreationists for many years to see the establishment of a series of connections through the gorge at a lower elevation and along the river where possible. Most notable among these efforts are the Historic Columbia River Gorge Highway (HCRH) connection projects, the trail 400 project, and the Chinook Trail.

(If the name "Chinook Trail" is unfamiliar, you aren't alone; I had never heard of it before either, but it's a long-term effort to build a backcountry trail over on the Washington Side of the Gorge, eventually connecting with either the Gorge Trail, or the Hatfield Trail, or a fresh new backcountry trail on the Oregon side to form a big long loop.)

Anyway, in a later section of the plan, we finally get some details about what they had in mind. (The acronym NSA in this context means the then-new Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area, not the shadowy intelligence agency.)

#1 Lewis and Clark to Portland Women's Forum, MP CRGNSA trail proposal No. T27. Trail Maps 1 and 2

OPRD's proposal for this trail deviates from the NSA proposal in that Chamberlain Road is used rather than trying to build a trail through the complex ownerships near Corbett Station. By constructing a pedestrian walk along the county road, a trail connection could be accomplished much sooner and at less expense. Easements will be needed across the north face of Chanticleer Point.

The connection of this trail to Portland Women's Forum cannot be accomplished until parking is expanded at Portland Women's Forum to accommodate the long term parking requirements of trail users. Additional trailhead parking could be developed at the Corbett Station quarry if a suitable trail route from the quarry to Portland Women's Forum or from the Lewis and Clark to Portland Women's Forum trail route could be found.

Google Books has the 1992 Federal management plan for the new scenic area, which describes that proposal in a couple of paragraphs:

Trail Description: The land is primarily in private ownership. This trail would provide a link between the Portland/Vancouver metropolitan area and the Scenic Area. The trail would provide views of both the Columbia River and the pastoral landscape of the western Gorge. This trail would form part of a loop trail that links to the Sandy River Delta Trail. Recreation Intensity Class: mostly 1. Development Proposal: Four miles of new trail are proposed to provide opportunities for hiking and scenic appreciation. There is an existing trailhead opportunity at Lewis and Clark State Park; a parking area is proposed at the existing borrow pit at Corbett Station in the GMA. Some sections of the trail traverse steep bluff lands and would require sophisticated design and construction.

For whatever reason, the Management Plan "as amended thru September 1st 2011" deletes the entire section of concrete proposals and just speaks somewhat vaguely about high level goals.

Getting back to the state plan, it has maps after page 100, which show the trail eventually connecting to the old wagon road between Portland Womens Forum and Rooster Rock, and then making its way over to the Vista House. The maps also show that the proposed trail would be both Trail 400 and the Chinook Trail; following the maps further east, the two routes diverge above Multnomah Falls, Trail 400 following its familiar (if currently closed) route, and the Chinook Trail taking a parallel route further south/uphill, and this arrangement continuing all the way to Hood River. I imagine this would let you hike to Hood River and back mostly as a loop (albeit a long, skinny sort of loop), or put together more reasonably-sized loops out of parts of the two plus connecting trails. The key detail here is that significant chunks of the Chinook route would be new construction, and as the first route to Hood River is not exactly making rapid progress, it feels like building a brand-new second route is a bit of a longer-term vision, to put it mildly. Maybe it'll be ready around the time the gorge has fully regrown from the Eagle Creek fire, who knows.

Metro's 1992 Metropolitan Greenspaces Master Plan described the proposal: "The Chinook Trail is a proposed Columbia River Gorge loop trail that will connect Vancouver Lake, Maryhill State Park, Biggs, and Portland. It will travel in part on existing trails. The concept was formalized in 1988 as a rim-top trail where possible."

These plans only get a very brief mention in the 2011 Master Plan for Lewis & Clark specifically, which mostly focuses on parking and congestion, and improved river access. It does acknowledge that the trail exists and ideas for it are out there, but doesn't propose doing anything about them.

[I]t is a hub for a series of existing and proposed trails that will eventually connect Portland with the City of Hood River. This includes an eventual link with the famous “40-Mile Loop” trail network on the east side of the Sandy River on federal and state land and with cycling routes along the Historic Columbia River Highway

and a few pages later:

There is a walking trail at the foot of Broughton Bluff along the edge of the lawn that extends northeast along the north face of the bluff at least as far as the eastern property boundary.

The state's 2015 Gorge master plan (which I guess supersedes the 1994 plan) more or less includes the 2011 plan by reference and repeats the ideas from there (chapter 8, pages 148-149, here). The map on page 149 incorrectly shows the trail heading off onto private property, which (as I noted above) is not actually true. Which is not an encouraging sign.

More recently, Metro -- Portland's regional government, which runs Oxbow Park further south on the Sandy (among many other things) -- has taken an interest in the long-running proposed trail, calling it the "Lower Columbia Gorge Trail". A 2014 map from Metro shows it as a "proposed regional trail" heading east off the map as a connection from Portland to the Gorge. The agency's 2017 "Green Trails" guide describes it as one of several future "inter-regional" trails, along with the Willamette Greenway south to Eugene-or-so, and two routes west to different destinations on the coast. The interesting thing about this is that, per a 2019 map, the "Sandy River Connections" project area is one of 24 "acquisition target areas" where they're interested in buying land or paying for easements. Historically they've just been interested in property along the Sandy, but the maps shows their "ok to buy within this area" radius, which looks like some number of miles past the urban growth boundary, and everything out to Rooster Rock seems to be fair game, in theory. And it's basically all state and federal land east of there, so that might be sufficient to fill in the gaps. Metro has local bond money specifically dedicated for this, too, where the state rarely does, and the feds are rarely interested these days (though that might change after the inauguration in January, unless Trump blows up the world before that.)

Which brings us to a "Now What?" section. For the sake of argument, let's assume first that schools, healthcare, housing, antipoverty programs and other concrete human needs are being funded properly, and there's money left over after that, and we don't need to have a zero-sum argument over what to cut in order to build something new. Let's also assume that within the recreation budget, maintenance and repair is already funded, so we aren't trading off against restoring Eagle Creek and other fire-damaged areas, reviving ones that were abandoned or relegated to unmaintained status like the old Perdition Trail at Multnomah Falls, the viewpoint at the top of Wahkeena Falls, and so on.

This is not the most wild or scenic stretch of the route. not aware of any key points of interest along the route, and land ownership around corbett is an issue. and I'm not personally sold that it would be important enough to buy except from willing sellers. the current thing that attracts funding is the bike-centric HCRH Trail, which follows the 1916 route of the old highway. eventually there may be an interest in doing the same thing for the circa-1940 pre-I-84 water-level route (per the Tunnel Point post), for cyclists who'd like to skip the tourist traffic (or just the additional elevation gain and loss) along the initial chunk of old highway. So a hiking trail could maybe piggyback on that in spots where there isn't space or money to build both. with or without HCRH trail involvement, one slightly-outside-the-box idea might be to cross the overpass at Corbett and walk along the river for a bit, either to Rooster Rock (where there's another existing overpass) or maybe to a new pedestrian bridge over I-84 at Tunnel Point and heading east from there to squeeze past Palisade Falls


  • The very first piece of the park that the state owned was actually the gravel parking area just across the river from Glenn Otto Park, purchased way back in July 1936, probably for the sake of public fishing access. They don't appear to have named it right away, and the old survey map for it just calls it "Parking Area".
  • land acquired in 1954 in a 3-way deal: Timber co. buys the land, swaps it for non-scenic BLM land elsewhere, BLM donates it to the state. Article says the goal was to eventually assemble a big park running the whole length of the gorge, which I suppose the National Scenic Area basically is.
  • September 1955 article on the soon-to-open park
  • An article from December 1965 about what would eventually become Estacada's Milo McIver State Park explained that it was needed as a safety valve because existing parks along the Sandy and Columbia were overflowing with visitors. Rooster Rock and Dabney each attracted 250k visitors that year, and Lewis & Clark pulled in 350k people, who were packed into the park's "anemic" 56 acres like an "outdoor sardine can". For contrast, in 2019 Rooster Rock was the 19th most visited state park with 667k visitors, down 29% from the previous year for some reason. I can't find numbers for the others since they didn't make the top 20, or the bottom 20.

    A 1965 article inventorying parks and recreational opportunities in East Multnomah County mentioned Lewis & Clark as one of the area's shiniest and newest parks, and explained that we would soon need even more parks like it. The author explained that in the time before white settlers arrived, local tribes had a word for the ennui that comes with having too much free time and no work that needed doing, in the months after the salmon and berries had been dried for the winter and so forth. He argued a similar situation was looming for Americans of the near future: "The Portland urban dweller of A.D. 2000 — perhaps even sooner — will find himself suffering from the same malady, what with the coming 30- and 20-hour week, the extended leisure time, and an increasingly easy life." .

  • October 1967, in the upcoming election Troutdale voters were being asked to approve a controversial sewer bond issue, which on one hand would result in the city no longer dumping raw sewage into the river, just upstream of the park's public beaches. On the other hand, doing this would cost money.
  • 1969, a Multnomah County Commissioner was bound and determined to site a new metro-area garbage dump in the sandy river delta, just downstream, although locals opposed the idea. Residents must have prevailed eventually, since there's no dump there now.
  • A 1969 article explained that conventional wisdom among local park rangers -- including one responsible for both Dabney and Lewis & Clark -- was that out-of-state visitors were typically cleaner and nicer than local residents, contradicting a widespread public notion of the time. A visiting family from Pendleton at Lewis & Clark reported that someone had knocked their tent over, accusing them of being Californians and demanding that they leave the state.
  • August 1970, county turned down a proposed rock quarry south of the park, after turning down another proposal in corbett, 2 miles from Crown Point. The developer couldn't see why people opposed the idea, explaining that the quarrying was temporary and he planned to build houses on the site as soon as the mining phase was done.
  • August 1971, park hosted a unit of Green Berets who were retracing the Lewis & Clark route for some reason.
  • October 1972, bit about historical sites being gobbled up by development. seemed to focus on lewis & clark sites, including here, which had no historical marker at the time. gov. mccall promised to fix that particular detail
  • May 1974 E.G. Chuinard of the Lewis & Clark Trail Committee (seen above/later) writes in response to an earlier editorial about typos on a sign at the park. He explains that the typos are how Lewis & Clark spelled things and are thus historical in nature and not incorrect.
  • the aforementioned editorial, titled "History in Misspelled Words".
  • the coming-soon article
  • the unveiling, with photo
  • December 1975, a columnist waxing on about a seasonal waterfall a bit upstream of the park. (w/ photo)
  • March 1976, the county had leased land for the motorcycle park as an alternative after passing a restrictive off-road vehicle ordinance. forgot to rezone the land for the new use at first. . a story on the same page mentions the shiny new Trojan Nuclear Plant was being swarmed by smelt and had to report it to the feds.
  • March 1977, report on the annual smelt run
  • September 1977: In an extremely 1970s episode, the park was the destination of a 5 mile river race from Dabney State Park, sponsored by the local 7-Up bottler and US Army recruiters, as one of many local festivities organized around the annual Jerry Lewis Telethon. (!!) Local telethon content was hosted by Ramblin' Rod. Other events included a 3-day CB radio jamboree, and a disco car wash at Beaverton Mall. leading up to this were a few weeks of danceathons, skateathons, bike races, raft races, waffle feeds, and shoot outs.
  • July 1978, mentioned on a list of good picnic spots around the state. The list is interesting. hagg lake, blue lake, baldock rest area were state parks, cook park was washington county, belle view point was publicly accessible
  • May 1981, legislative hearing endorses the so-called "40 mile loop", now "the intertwine", which
  • August 1981, adjacent county land had been operated as a motorcycle park, but closed due to budget cuts. Recall that the county had opened it after an ordinance cracked down on offroad motorcycles. But closing the motorcycle facility did not revive o

Saturday, August 10, 2024

Cape Horn Viewpoint

Next up, here are a few photos from the Cape Horn Viewpoint, right on SR14 on the Washington side of the Columbia Gorge. It's basically just a wide spot on SR14 with a nice unobstructed view to the south and east and an official sign. This is right around a blind corner on a busy state highway and there aren't any signs telling drivers it's coming up just ahead, so it's very easy to zoom right by and miss it. But then, the wide shoulder that passes for a parking lot is already as big as it can get, and it's quite often completely full, so doing anything that would attract more would-be visitors might be counterproductive. So visitation is on sort of an if-you-know-you-know basis. If you miss it and want to try again, the first good place to turn around is the Salmon Falls Park and Ride, which is maybe a mile past the viewpoint. There's nowhere safe to park on the other side of the highway, and if you could, crossing the road there isn't exactly a good idea either, so keep going and turn around a second time at Belle Center Road, another mile westbound from there, and try not to miss it this time.

Incidentally, there's a Belle Center Creek that runs sorta-parallel to Belle Center Rd. and becomes a rather tall waterfall south of the intersection with SR14. A handful of trip reports can be found online, but the land is not actually public property, and is probably not going to become public property anytime soon. It seems there's a long-running dispute going back to at least 2009, and still going as of 2023. The root cause seems to be the landowner's passion for, or obsession with, ziplines. More precisely, his interest in building and operating them without clearing it with the county or complying with the National Scenic Area's many, many rules and regulations. Even spent a brief period behind bars for noncompliance, early on. And unusually, I feel kind of sympathetic toward his efforts. Not in a "rules and regulations shouldn't exist" libertarian sort of way, more of a, this guy seems to genuinely feel this is his life's purpose, like he's sort of a Johnny Appleseed of building ziplines, and I bet that would be a fascinating TED talk. Was there a moment he realized this was his life's work, or was it more of a gradual thing? I am genuinely curious.

Anyway, one practical detail you ought to know: The Cape Horn area is also home to a Forest Service-run recreational area, which I covered in a Cape Horn Loop post back in 2020, which I think covers the surrounding area pretty well, or at least it's up to my usual standards. The important detail right now is that the viewpoint is not connected to that trail network in any way. This is not a trailhead, and there's just enough parking for people to stop, get a photo or two, and then get a move on. I think this is also true of the Ozone Crag rock climbing area and other similar spots to the west of here, meaning you can't park somewhere else and take one of the hiking trails to the climbing area.

I also have one historical tidbit to share about this stretch of the highway. If you stand near the railing and look north you might notice that the highway continues on a concrete viaduct for about 500 feet or so. This was not in the original design for the road, and exists thanks to a 1927 construction accident, where either the state transportation department or a contractor got the math wrong and used wayyy too much dynamite, which turned a nice stretch of freshly built scenic highway into a field of boulders and gravel a few hundred feet below. Incredibly, nobody was killed or seriously injured when this happened, so it's ok to point and laugh at Washington's hapless highway engineers. The nearly-complete highway was delayed in opening for another 3 years, so this was a much more consequential screw-up than Oregon's exploding whale incident of November 12th 1970, though the whale incident is still funnier. Bonus fun fact, Tonya Harding (the legendary/notorious figure skater) was born on the same exact day the state detonated that whale. As far as anybody knows this was just a weird coincidence and the two facts are otherwise unrelated.

Speaking of which, here's the trailer to a low-budget action film she co-starred in shortly after all that Nancy business.

Saturday, October 24, 2020

Beaver Falls

Ok, next up we're doing the short hike to Beaver Falls, along a stretch of the old Columbia River Highway between Rainier and Clatskanie, on the way to Astoria. This waterfall is not exactly famous, and the surrounding area isn't touristy, and the present-day road doesn't look particularly significant, and this would be a prime opportunity for me to score some hipster points explaining how incredibly obscure everything is, if hipster points were a thing worth having. Right up there with listing off bands nobody on the planet has ever heard of, or chuckling when someone mispronounces your favorite artisanal goat breed, or whatever.

For readers outside the Northwest, or who aren't familiar with this ongoing occasional project of mine, here's a little background. The original Columbia River Highway was a major engineering project of the early 20th century, promoted as the region's first 'modern' road -- by Model T-era standards -- with one section heading east from Portland to The Dalles and points east -- including the famous tourist-clogged stretch through the Columbia River Gorge -- and another leg (the Lower Columbia River Highway) going westbound to Astoria and the coast. The highway was designed to showcase the region, wandering around the landscape in search of waterfalls and other scenery, with state-of-the-art concrete bridges, and walls and other structures built by Italian stone masons. Unfortunately as the only modern road in the area, and the only road at all in some areas, it made itself obsolete almost immediately thanks to induced demand & was replaced by bigger, better, faster, wider, straighter ultra-modern boring roads starting in the 1940s, with this stretch getting the treatment in 1955.

As with the eastern leg of the highway, the bypassed bits and pieces of the old road typically became lightly-used side roads or were abandoned entirely, and scenic highlights along these parts quickly faded into obscurity. But unlike the stretch through the Gorge, the surviving parts on the way to Astoria don't have road signs, or shiny new ODOT-funded bike paths, or glossy guidebooks, or really any publicity at all. But the roads themselves are still there, and the scenic bits that were there a century ago are still there, if you know where to look. The waterfalls are maybe not of the same scale or quantity as in the Gorge -- which is famous for a reason -- but fame draws crowds, and like a lot of people I'm all about avoiding crowds right now. Beaver Falls did get a brief bit of attention back in July when an Oregonian article covered it as one of several waterfalls that weren't barricaded off for the ongoing pandemic. Which actually was very useful information, since nobody seems to be tracking which destinations are currently open and which aren't across the region, and I'm not inclined to make the long drive without knowing that little detail.

I think I ought to start by explaining how to get there, or at least how I got there, and then I'll get to the trail and the falls themselves. The fastest and easiest way -- which is not what I did -- is to just stay on US 30 westbound past Rainier until the the turnoff for Beaver Falls Road at the tiny sorta-town of Delena, then stay on the road for another 3.6 miles. You'll see an unsigned parking lot on your left with room for maybe a dozen cars (this is a guess; I did not actually count the cars when I was there). GPS coordinates for the parking lot, not the falls, are 46.1038712, -123.1282997, if that helps at all.

As for what I actually did, I'd noticed that there was another stretch of the old highway starting in downtown Rainier, and I wanted to see what it was like while I was in the area. Rainier and Clatskanie are both right at river level, but there's a hill between them, and the Columbia bends north for a bit at that point and then back. So to go between the two towns you either follow the river several miles out of the way (like the railroad line does), or go over the hill, which is what both the old and current highways do. But while today's US 30 just goes directly up and over the hill and down the other side, the original route made several switchbacks ascending from downtown Rainier, and then followed Beaver Creek down the other side before bending south into downtown Clatskanie.

I haven't figured out how to embed a Google map with custom directions -- I could swear I've done that before, but now the embeddable map reverts to the default route on US 30, which I don't want -- but at least I can still make a link showing the old route, so you can see what it looks like in another tab. As you can see there, the old route (which now goes by "Old Rainier Road") starts south of 30, at the west end of downtown Rainier. By accident I actually turned off 30 a bit before the map does, and drove around in downtown Rainier a bit looking for where I'd planned to be, and ran across an unrelated historic bridge in the process, but didn't stop for photos & eventually found the turn I wanted. In any case, it climbs the hill via the switchbacks I mentioned, but unfortunately this stretch of the old highway clearly hasn't been paved in ages, and the forest around it is overgrown and starting to encroach on the road, giving that stretch a weird claustrophobic feel. Parts of the road have very old guardrails that might date back to the state highway days; these are in poor shape, unfortunately, and it's clear they've been crashed into a lot over however many decades they've been there.

A note at Recreating the HCRH says there was once a state highway wayside somewhere along this stretch (the "Ditto Wayside", named for local philanthropists), with a trail to some nearby springs. But there isn't a wayside or viewpoint here now, nor is there much of a view anymore thanks to trees growing over the last century or so. I even checked the Columbia County GIS system out of curiosity, in case it was still there somewhere but overgrown and forgotten, but it shows no public property nearby, so maybe the state unloaded it after the road stopped being a state highway.

At the top of the hill the road improves and you're in ordinary rural country for a while til you get back to US 30 at the tiny burg of Alston, with the next segment of old road just across the highway. The intersection is a little sketchy, but there's bound to be a gap in traffic eventually and then you can scoot across when nobody's looking. The road heads west from there as Alston Rd. for a few blocks, and then you have to merge onto 30 just for a few hundred feet or so before leaving it again at the Beaver Falls Road turnoff I mentioned earlier.

So however you got to Beaver Falls Road, one thing you'll notice on the way to the trailhead is that the road crosses and recrosses Beaver Creek several times on old bridges that look original to the century-old road, or at least inspired by the originals. Somewhere along that stretch, two miles upstream from Beaver Falls is where you'd stop to go look at Upper Beaver Falls, if only you knew where to stop. I wasn't sure where it was, exactly, so I skipped that side trip and continued on to the main event. The parking lot for the main falls was easier to find, since there were other cars there and a seasonal official sign next to the trailhead warning visitors about county forest fire rules. A blog post from February 2017 I ran across showed no such list of rules or any other sort of sign for the falls, so knowing you're in the right place might be a little harder in the off season.

From the trailhead, a short but kind of rocky trail leads down to the falls. I should point out that photos taken in August will not really do the falls justice; unlike falls in the Gorge, Beaver Creek doesn't have high altitude snowmelt feeding it in the summer, and it dwindles to a fraction of its winter and springtime volume. August is when I got the idea to go visit, and I sadly don't have a way to fast-forward us all to maybe mid-April 2021 so we can go see them then instead. And the additional tradeoff with waiting until next spring is that I gather the trail gets slippery and treacherous when wet. It also would've helped, photo-wise, if I'd stopped by at any time of day other than when the sun was directly above the falls and you have to bob and weave and shade your phone with one hand trying to keep both the sun and your hand out of your shot. All I can say to that is that I certainly wanted to take quality photos of the falls, but sleeping in on weekend mornings is also pretty great, and I feel like I struck a reasonable balance among several competing priorities. I may go back at some point to find the other waterfall upstream and maybe take some bridge photos if there's anywhere to park to do that. If I do that, I may give Beaver Falls another try too, and the upper falls too if I can find them.

I should point out herethat that although the wider world may have forgotten Beaver Falls, it's still a popular local swimming hole, and there were more people there than I would've preferred to encounter while hiking during a pandemic, and mask use was far from universal (ugh), though I obviously lived to tell the tale this time. The falls are about 50 feet high, with a deep pool at the base, and teens were jumping from the top of the falls while I was there. I suppose they've probably all done this hundreds of times and learned how from older teens, and almost nobody ever lands headfirst or hits a rock or tangles with the submerged car wreckage the Oregonian article insists is somewhere down in the deep pool below the falls. But it still stressed me out a little. I don't really have a rational basis for this, just a random worry someone might try an extreme new stunt for the first time just then and it would go badly, I guess. Everybody was fine; I just didn't stay as long as I would have, otherwise. Retraced my steps back to the parking lot, then continued along the remaining bit of old highway into Clatskanie, and got on present-day Highway 30 to head home.

For what it's worth, I did actually verify this is a county park and not just a traditional local trespassin' spot where the owner almost never shows up with a shotgun. I kind of like to double-check that sort of thing before encouraging random internet strangers to do something I did. It's not shown as a park on Google Maps, nor is it listed on the county parks website, so I figured it was at least an open question. So I checked the county GIS system again and sure enough, the system says it's called "Beaver Falls Park", 29.06 acres, with a map tax lot number of 7412-00-00601, in case anyone out there wants to triple-check my double-checking. I gather that the county classifies it as "unimproved" despite the trail and the parking lot, which may be why they don't really advertise that it exists, and why they stick to encouraging you not to set the forest on fire, and don't post any friendly "Welcome to Beaver Falls County Park, this way to the falls, lodge and spa that way." signage. The trail is surprisingly new, too; the county updated the master plan for its 24 parks in 2007, and putting in a trail was one of the suggested future improvements back then. In 2009 there was an ODOT-funded road project [doc] here, repaving this stretch of road, installing vintage-looking guardrails, and adding fencing so people could safely view the falls from the road. It doesn't mention anything about working on parking at the trailhead, or about a trailhead existing at that point, but I'm not sure whether that counts as a data point.

I kept reading that Beaver Falls was much more well-known decades ago, and faded out of public awareness after the highway was rerouted. Which stands to reason, I guess, but it made wonder whether the falls had ever been all that famous, and if so, what it had been like back in that era. So I took another dive back into the local library's historic newspaper databases to see if I could find anything interesting about the place, whether about the falls themselves, the highway and how it came to be, the doings of local residents in the Greater Beaver Falls metro area, that sort of thing. The finished product ended up as more of a story about the road than the falls, and to some degree about reporters who covered the new road, and various old cars they made the journey in.

Let me point out that "Beaver Falls" is not one of the easier keyword searches, so I might have missed a thing or two while wading through all the noise. The Northwest's early US settlers seem to have been a literal-minded, unimaginative bunch, so except for a few places where they decided to swipe an existing native name, places ended up with generic names like "Beaver Falls" and "Beaver Creek", along with Deer, Eagle, Salmon, etc. creeks. A Gnat Creek exists elsewhere in the northern coast range, and it apparently sports a few waterfalls too, though the name may cut down on the tourist trade. Other uncreative names include Whale Cove, Elk Rock, Wildcat Mountain, probably all named due to some early pioneer seeing an animal nearby. And when they didn't name a creek after an animal, they went with some mundane aspect of the creek: Big Creeek, or Deep, or Silver (as in whitewater); or Mill Creek if somebody built a sawmill on a creek before naming the creek; or if the first thing they noticed was a waterfall, Fall Creek, or maybe Falls Creek if they saw more than one. And then falls are often named after the creek, like Pup Creek Falls recently. The falls here have sometimes gone by Beaver Creek Falls. Fall Creek Falls is not uncommon, and elsewhere in the state there's a Falls City Falls, in which the falls are named for the town that's named for the falls. If another waterfall is found later and it needs a name too, it becomes Upper or Lower Animal Creek Falls. If the creek forks, you get stuff like North and South Falls at Silver Falls State Park, and yes, there's an Upper North Falls.

So the oldest mention of the 'right' Beaver Falls that I ran across was an April 2nd 1899 news item (predating the highway by roughly 20 years) relating someone's visit to the falls during a recent fishing trip. It describes the falls much as they are today, albeit with very different directions for getting there:

The falls are eight miles from Mayger's Landing on the Columbia River, and six miles from Beaver Station, on the Astoria railroad. The county road to Beaver Valley, in good weather, is passable for bicycles. From the end of the county road to the falls is about 1 1/2 miles on a poor trail, through the brush and in the bed of the creek.
The article was published as a small item on that day's Woman's Page. Much of of the rest of the page is devoted to 1899's most fashionable looks for Easter direct from New York and abroad, meaning lots of corsets and embroidery, and elaborate hats with feathers from the world's endangered birds.

The next mention of the Beaver Falls area came in 1909, as Columbia County voted on adopting Prohibition countywide. Voters rejected the idea (though it eventually passed statewide in 1914), with Clatskanie rejecting it narrowly and Rainier by a nearly 2:1 margin. At press time, results were not yet in for Beaver Falls and a couple of other then-remote precincts. The article states they were expected to vote majority-dry, though it's not clear how or why the writer would have known that.

Then we get to the origins of the old highway, starting with "Boulevard to Pacific Ocean Would Be Scenic Marvel", February 18th 1912. In which department store magnate (and future governor) Julius Meier explained in great detail how amazing it would be if there was a road to the coast -- which he insisted would be both practical and affordable -- and announced he was forming a lobbying group to bring this road into being. It seems that Clatskanie-area boosters were the ones who had first sold him on this route, and so Meier spent a large portion of the article explaining how their stretch of the Lower Columbia region would soon be densely populated and incredibly prosperous, perhaps a second Holland in the making. (Many wetlands along the river were being diked and drained for farming around this time, so there was a superficial resemblance). Toward the end he pointed out that Portland would need to kick in some cash toward the road, as Clatskanie had not, as yet, made a great deal of progress toward its destiny as a future Amsterdam-on-the-Columbia.

Meier apparently had enough pull with his fellow movers and shakers that the road was already in the works by October of that year, with the eventual route largely decided upon, including the route along Beaver Creek on the way to Clatskanie. In an October 13th 2012 article "Bowlby Opines on Highway Plan", highway promoters had invited Major H.L. Bowlby -- former Washington highway commissioner, and current head of the Pacific Highway Association, a "Good Roads" lobbying group -- to travel the proposed route and offer his expert opinions on the project. He was enthusiastic overall, with a few minor quibbles and some platitudes about listening to the locals while planning the final route. He went on to explain that these sorts of projects were usually financed with public bond measures and paid off over 20 or 30 years, and the proposed highway would likely need to do this.

County voters passed the needed bond measure in February 1914 by a vote of 1695 to 1162. The measure came to $360k overall (about $9,357,048 in 2020 dollars), with $260k of that dedicated to the new highway, and the balance spread around the inland parts of the county to try to win support for the measure. Which largely didn't work; the vote breakdown by precinct showed lopsided votes in favor from cities and towns along the proposed highway route -- the riverside mill town of Prescott voting 45 to 1 in favor, as an extreme example -- and lopsided votes against it elsewhere, with the inland town of Yankton voting 9 to 112 against the idea. The most historically significant detail of this election is mentioned in a brief aside: "A total vote of 2857 was cast, in most places the women taking an active part in the voting.". Women's suffrage had finally been approved by the state's all-male electorate in 1912, on the sixth attempt, so this special election would have been the first, or among the first, that did not disenfranchise a majority of the population. The article spent more words assuring voters that the county already had a project manager lined up and construction ought to begin in early spring.

Skipping forward a year, it turns out that Maj. Bowlby's 1912 visit had been more of a job interview than a consulting gig, and he'd landed the overall chief engineering job for the Portland-to-Astoria stretch of the highway. Unfortunately things were not going well. In an article "Columbia County Faces Road Crisis" (March 12th 1915), we learn that the project was substantially over budget, and the county was already running low on cash despite the earlier bond measure. The entire county court had recently been recalled and replaced because of the troubled project, and some residents were calling for Bowlby to be fired, largely from the south side of the county (St. Helens & Scappoose), which had not received a lot of new roadwork at that point in the project. The idea was that the south side already had adequate roads to Portland so the route of the highway would use them rather than building a new road, at least for the time being. Which to me sounds like the right decision, financially, but locals just saw construction being weighted heavily toward Rainier & Clatskanie and were jealous about it. The article includes a couple of grainy photos, one of a large rock wall similar to those on the more famous parts of the highway thru the Gorge, and another of some dignitaries looking at a completed section of road. These photos were in relation to a recent construction incident where some brand-new dry stonework along the road had collapsed. An assistant state highway engineer responsible for day-to-day operations blamed the collapse on contractors' use of cheap non-Italian labor.

He has a theory that the Italian workmen alone know how to build dry walls; that the art was handed down to them from the ancient Romans, whose walls in various parts of Europe remain standing after centuries of use.

The scandal stayed in the headlines over the next few days. In "Misunderstanding of Finances Cause of Columbia Road Crisis" (March 16th 1915), we learn more about how the county got itself into this pickle. It seems that one reason locals were so upset over cost overruns was that during the bond measure campaign, pro-highway advocates had promised, or at least strongly implied, that state government matching funds would pay for a big chunk of the project. It turned out, post-election, that pro-road advocates weren't actually authorized to make any such promise on behalf of the state, and precisely zero dollars arrived from Salem after county voters agreed to kick in their chunk of the tab. The article points out that the entire state highway department budget was only $240k per year at the time and the state simply didn't have that kind of money.

The March 16th article also has two photos; one of Beaver Falls, with a narrow wooden footbridge above it, and another of a modern concrete bridge over the creek. The footbridge above the falls would have been associated with a sawmill that operated above the falls until around 1917, when the local supply of trees worth cutting had been depleted. The original plan at the mill had been to build a splash dam above the falls: You build a temporary dam, let it fill with water and dump all of your logs into it until it's nice and full. Then you break the dam, and let the resulting flash flood wash your logs downstream to somewhere where you can collect them at your leisure. Which I guess could be a practical way to move logs around without building any roads or railroad tracks, assuming you'd done the math right and had stored up enough water to get your logs from point A to point B. The people behind this scheme had not done their math right, and promptly went bankrupt.

In any case, another article "Bowlby Crisis Now Delays Road Work" appeared the next day (March 17th 1915), rehashing the many complaints about Bowlby and his project. The primary ones being that the road was going to cost more than residents felt they'd been promised; that it was also taking longer than promised, in part due to fights with contractors and some ugly eminent domain battles; and that Bowlby was somehow overspending on surveying and design work. Apart from the eminent domain stuff, a lot of that sounds eerily familiar to me even though over a century has passed and I just make software and not highways. A new additional anti-Bowlby complaint was that the route of the highway through St. Helens would bypass the city center and instead run parallel to an existing rail line a mile outside town. Which seems like a fair complaint, honestly; bypassing the county seat and largest town that way does seem like a strange thing to do. However it's also undoubtedly the reason central St. Helens remains cute and historic today. So that actually paid off in the end, though there was no way the people of 1915 could have known that. The article largely stems from an interview with one of the county court members ousted in the earlier recall, so the listed complaints were not exactly coming from an unbiased obbserver.

So this project that was in familiar trouble was faced with the same eternal engineering tradeoff as every other troubled project since the beginning of time. You have three options: You can add resources -- more money, more workers, etc. -- but there was clearly no more money to be had just then; you can stretch out the schedule -- but the previous articles made it clear the public & authorities were already restless over how long it was taking; or you can satisfy the previous two constraints by just doing less -- cutting the scope of the project, or the quality of the finished product. One of the links above -- and I forgot to make a note as to which one -- indicated they'd found a few areas where they could save money and time by just not building a few stretches of the road at first, where there was an existing road they could make do with for now. I'm not sure what this was called in 1915; a more contemporary term is "value engineering", and in the software world you're delivering an MVP, or Minimum Viable Product. So they figured out what their MVP looked like: 1.) Given a sufficiently powerful contemporary car, you could start driving from Portland in the morning, and arrive at the beach in time for dinner. and 2.) Some nontrivial part of the road had to be new or improved, so voters could see they'd gotten some return on their investment. And I've been involved in enough of these things to know the implicit 3rd item: The missing parts you didn't have time or money to build or debug are just annoying enough that it shakes loose additional funding to finish the job. But not so annoying that people switch back to the train, or try a different road, or go with a competing software product. With all of that in mind, a big gala grand opening celebration was scheduled for August 1915, just a few months away.

The PR blitz for the new road ramped up weeks ahead of the big day. In a July 18th article, "Julius L. Meier One of the First to Urge Lower Columbia Highway", the paper offered a glowing -- even fawning -- profile going on and on about Meier's foresight in recognizing the need for the road, and his practical ability in organizing the pro-road campaign, and then went on and on about how much prosperity was coming now that the road was (supposedly) almost a reality. This was quickly followed by "Columbia Highway Beauty Described", August 8th, by Meier himself. Among the highlights he mentions are the stone work along the highway at Prescott Point, near Goble; the highway loops ascending Bugby Heights (formerly Bugby Mountain); and the view from the hilltop outside Rainier. Beaver Creek only got a brief mention in connection with the new highway eventually opening up the area to farming, since they ony wanted to talk about the finished parts of the road just then, and the Beaver Creek part was nowhere near being done.

The long-awaited grand opening was chronicled in "Columbia Highway to Sea Christened", August 13th, in which a 40-car convoy of dignitaries made the 135-mile journey from Portland to Astoria, and then down the coast to the ritzy resort town of Gearhart, in less than seven hours, not counting stops for grand opening ceremonies in various towns along the way, or for digging Meier's car (also carrying the governor and one of the state's US Senators) out of sand it had gotten stuck in further toward the coast. The stretch between Rainier and Clatskanie wasn't complete yet -- the article explains there were just a few bridges over Beaver Creek that weren't finished -- and the convoy had to use a steep, rustic forest road for that portion of their expedition.

Cadillac "8" Makes First Trip Over Highway to Sea, August 15th, a lengthy first-person account from a car The Oregonian sent out ahead of the big convoy. Strictly speaking the journalists were guests of the car's owner, and the paper didn't splurge on a new Cadillac for the occasion. The article raves about the car almost as much as the road. The article claimed Little Jack Falls (along a now-abandoned stretch of highway near Prescott, south of Rainier) was the only waterfall along the road, which would have been true at the time, as nearby Jack Falls tends to dry up in the summer. They had gotten lost heading west from Rainier, and then were unsure of the route again at Delena, so they may have been nowhere near Beaver Falls. The article makes it very clear that the road was still very much under constructon along much of its route, and they kept encountering road crews making frantic last-minute fixes ahead of the dignitaries' arrival.

"Reo Makes Astoria Run in Five Hours", September 12th 1915. This was by Chester A. Moores, the paper's auto editor -- who also wrote the recent Cadillac piece -- and covered largely the same trip as the previous articles. By this point a journey like this had already moved off the front page to the paper's automobile section, next to the car ads. Readers were reassured that you didn't to splurge on a Cadillac to get to the beach; the solidly middle-class REO was up to the job and could even take a turn at rescuing other motorists whose less-sturdy vehicles couldn't handle some downhill sections of the road. (A new REO touring car started at $1250 in 1915 dollars, about $32k now, while a new Cadillac "8" Type 51 started at $1975, roughly $51k in 2020 money). The article has a photo of Little Jack Falls (which the highway ran right at the base of) and another of the long climb up Clatsop Crest (formerly Bugby Heights), and describes the Clatskanie area as a miniature Holland. In other 1915 automotive news, remote starting of a car via the miracle of radio waves was being demonstrated for the first time at the Indiana State Fair: Every five minutes, crowds were wowed by a Model 83 Overland being started by a signal from the Overland factory five miles away, sent by a large and very stationary transmitter. So not exactly a practical device yet. Also the state highway department had issued a statement clarifying how the new auto registration laws worked, confirming that yes, in general you would have to pay the full $2 annual registration fee even if you'd owned the car for less than a year, although if you'd owned it for a month or less when the fees came due you only had to pay $1. And a Chigago gentleman named Otto Nordbo was seeking a car manufacturer to sponsor him as he proposed to drive from New York to San Francisco without eating. He claimed this would demonstrate just how safe modern cars were, and insisted that he knew what he was doing, as he had previously completed a 30 day fast, albeit without driving anywhere.

Moores made the trip again in August 1916, this time riding along with the local Kissel Kar dealer in a shiny new Hundred-Point Six. The car's big claim to fame was that it had both a convertible top for the summer (as seen in the article), and a removable hardtop for the rest of the year. Like many of the era's smaller car companies, Kissel fell on hard times in the Depression and stopped making cars in 1930, per an owners' club history. Moores's account pointed out a number of still-unfinished spots along the highway, but found nothing impassable along the way. Following local advice in Rainier, the adventurers took the longer river route west to Clatskanie, bypassing the whole Beaver Creek area.

Which brings us to a November 26th 1916 article, in which we learn that despite the grand opening, and all the assurances about just a few finishing touches remaining, the Delena-to-Clatskanie segment was still only half-completed over 15 months later, with nine (!) more bridges over Beaver Creek yet to be built. Project officials insisted the road would still be finished by mid-January, after scrounging up another $25k to pay for building it. Half of this money was a donation by Simon Benson, the Portland timber baron and philanthopist. The article explained the new road segment would pass perhaps four or five waterfalls and would be a new highlight of the highway when complete. This was followed by "Cut-Off Through Wonderland of Lower Highway is Now Being Completed Rapidly by Crews, who are Being Paid by S. Benson"December 10th. The article focuses on on Benson's recent donation, and the fact that he had once lived in a tiny cabin in the area when he was young, penniless, and just getting started in the logging industry, which is one of those rags-to-riches stories newspapers have always loved. It mentions he was planning to acquire the land around the old Oregon Lumber Company mill at Beaver Falls and donate it as a park. The article includes several photos, including one of the falls, which at the time were clearly visible from the (still-unpaved) road because the surrounding area had been clearcut quite recently. The article also mentions "Twin Falls" two miles upstream, which I think refers to today's Upper Beaver Falls, unless there's another waterfall upstream that everybody's forgotten about, which is also possible.

An August 1917 article, again by Moores, compared the Lower Columbia Highway to a route further south (present-day Highway 6) as ways to get to and from Astoria, by driving both in a shiny new Hudson Super Six. Moores claimed the Lower Columbia route was shorter -- which it might still be if you're headed to Gearhart -- but the route through the coast range was more scenic, which may also still be true when you aren't being tailgated by angry bros in Porsches, or stuck behind a lumbering RV. The article notes in passing that the Beaver Creek segment was still under construction at this point due to various unfinished bridges. A brief note on March 24th 1918 noted that the state had rejected a bid to build one of the planned Beaver Creek bridges for $6483.60 ($111,252.14 in 2020 dollars) and would go ahead and build it themselves instead.

Moores left the the paper in November 1917 to become private secretary to the governor; he had somehow found time to work his way through law school despite his day job driving all over the Northwest, and passed the bar exam in May. He later went into real estate -- his original beat at the Oregonian before the auto craze hit -- and later ran the Portland Housing Authority during WWII as it built the temporary shipyard housing at Vanport.

Meanwhile the vacant auto editor role, and the "Is the road finished yet?" beat, was taken over by L.H. Gregory, who spent a few years doing this early in his long career. Gregory continued the existing theme: Hitch a ride to Astoria and back in one of the year's hottest new cars, courtesy of a local dealership, take some photos, write another piece about current conditions along the road and any quirky stories or misadventures that occurred along the way. In that spirit, Gregory made the journey in May 1918 in a Series Nine Franklin Six -- Franklin being a small maker of quirky air-cooled cars out of Syracuse, NY. He announced that the road was open, even though they were on detour routes almost the entire distance west of Delena; no progress had been made on the long-delayed Beaver Creek bridges over the winter due to high water. I had to reread the article before realizing he meant the road was open for the season after being impassable all winter, not that it was complete. Gregory called the Franklin "a wonderful road car" and overall seems to have had a great time on this trip, marred only by his companions' complete inability to catch any fish anywhere along the way. (Incidentally, after Franklin went bankrupt in the Depression, the factory was taken over and made Carrier air conditioners until 2011, at which point the plant was demolished and the jobs shipped overseas.)

A June 30th 1918 article informs the reader that the journey to Astoria -- the other of Oregon's "two chief cities", as the article puts it -- could also be made in a Willys Six. The article starts boldly, announcing once again that that the road to Astoria was now open, but quickly gets to the qualifiers: It was not actually complete, despite being open, nor was it officially open yet, despite the grand festivities of summer 1915, and as it turns out "complete" did not necessarily mean the road had been paved or even macadamized (i.e. given the modern gravel road treatment.), though these gaps were no more than 7 or 8 miles and should be closed soon. The article advises readers to avoid the Delena-to-Clatskanie segment because the road right at Beaver Falls was still under heavy construction work, and motorists were being detoured around that spot on a steep, harrowing logging road. This detailed description of what not to do tells us that the writer's party did precisely what the reader is told not to attempt. We are also told the car's owner was a bit of a daredevil, and enjoyed driving around with a hole punched into his muffler to make his car sound faster. At a few points along the road, bystanders scattered as the car approached, and yelled and gestured as it rumbled by at 35mph. The Oregonian, as a family newspaper, did not record what these people were yelling.

"To Clatsop Crest, Lower Columbia Highway, in a Buick", April 20th 1919. In which the Gregory tagged along with a rep from the local Buick dealer, who had called in for advice on a nice Sunday drive, one that was obscure and people probably hadn't heard of, because Portland. They only went as far as Clatsop Crest, as the road continuing on to Astoria was known to be impassable when wet, which was a significant problem as Astoria averages ~191 rainy days per year, and ~18 rainy days in April. The Beaver Creek segment must have finally been open, at least, as the article included photos of both Beaver Falls and Little Jack Falls, the latter with the rep's shiny new Buick parked in front. Gregory mistakenly identified Beaver Creek as the Clatskanie River, but seemed to like what he saw, describing Beaver Falls as both a "Yellowstone Falls in miniature" and "a very baby Niagara", and stating that anyone who could drive by without at least stopping for ten minutes should be barred from the highway forever. The only mishap along the way came later near the Clatsop County line, as the car slipped off some wooden planks and sank up to its axles in deep mud, where a submerged plank full of nails ripped up one of the car's tires. A passing motorist noted that county officials had known about the mud pit since at least the previous November but had not done anything about it, speculating that it was "to show what could be done with a mudhole of that kind, or to spite Clatsop County, 100 yards away".

On August 31st, 1919, readers were treated to at least two accounts of driving to Astoria and back; in one article, two guys in a Mercer (a fast, sleek sports car by 1919 standards) set a new record, making it out to Astoria in 3 hours, 50 minutes, beating the old record by ten minutes. They were slowed down somewhat by two flat tires and what sounds like the same construction detour near Beaver Falls that the paper had complained about a year earlier. Seems that at this point the steep, harrowing logging road had a temporary road surface made of haphazardly laid wooden fence rails. In the second article, Gregory made the now-familiar journey once again, this time in a shiny new Chalmers, driven by the local Chalmers rep, along with their spouses and an artist from the paper who drew another route map for the article. In addition to the unpleasant detour, they also had contend with multiple black cats in the road -- which they gingerly shooed out of the way -- and then they inexplicably ran out of gas way out in the middle of nowhere, even though the Chalmers rep swore up and down that he'd filled the tank the night before.

From there we skip past winter again to February 1920, when paving was finally about to begin along the Beaver Creek section of highway. While paving work slogged along, Gregory did the Astoria run in June in another Franklin, and again in July in a Mitchell Scout. I'm not clear on whether that model would have been an infamous "Drunken Mitchell" -- the company wanted a more sleek and modern look, and angled the radiator by a few degrees, which scandalized the motoring public of 1920 for some reason. Having your car nicknamed "drunken" in the year Prohibition went into effect was probably not great from a marketing standpoint; the company backtracked in the next year's model, but the damage was done and they were out of business by 1923. Anyway, the July article mostly talks about the inland route to Astoria, today's OR 202, and laments that readers needed to go see it within the next couple of years as timber companies were already busy clearcutting adjacent forests right up to the road, with no laws on the books to stop them.

In the midst of all of this, a September 11th 1920 article discussed a proposal to buy Beaver Falls and the surrounding old mill site as a park. As I mentioned earlier, it's a county park now, and I've seen mentions of it being a park at least back to the early 1980s, but I still haven't figured out whether it's been a park for the entire time the road's been there.

"Hot Stuff Going Down on the Lower Columbia Highway", September 12th 1920, published exactly 100 years before I wrote this paragraph. In which Gregory hopped in a shiny new Hupmobile, piloted by the local Hupmobile dealer, to investigate whether the road was done yet. We're told that paving work along the route was nearly complete other than 7.5 miles of gaps here and there, and everything should be open by October 10th, weather permitting. It wasn't clear whether these gaps were the same ones mentioned in the June 1918 article. On the bright side, the under-construction bits closer to Astoria were open when road crews weren't working, and modern personal injury law was decades in the future, so drivers were free to take their chances on the freshly-poured asphalt between 9:30pm and 2:30am daily, and all day on Sundays.

You might have guessed where this was going, given the time of year and the "weather permitting" caveat. In "Paving of Lower Columbia Highway Nears Completion" (October 17th 1920), we learn that it was turning out to be the wettest winter in at least 35 years and it had rained almost nonstop for the previous month, and there were still 4.75 miles of highway left to pave, and of course October is just the start of the long rainy season in this part of the world. The article offers several more photos of the road, and another nice hand-drawn map, but not a new completion date.

That was followed by "Columbia Highway Now Open from Hood River to Astoria", November 14th 1920, which announced the road was finally complete for real this time, with almost no remaining gaps. It seems the state Attorney General had belatedly realized the Highway Commission had no authority to build roads within city limits, or to assist anyone else in any way in doing so, and ordered them to stop. Which left one block of gravel in Astoria, another at Hood River city limits, and the whole length of the road through Rainier. We know all this in detail because Gregory covered the whole route in a shiny new Jordan Six, driven by a guy with the local Jordan dealership. (Jordan was a small maker of upscale cars, largely remembered now for its revolutionary and occasionally scandalous auto ads. The firm cratered in the Great Depression, like a lot of the others we've met.) The article includes more photos, yet another cool hand-drawn map, and a "complete" list of key points along the road with their distances from Portland and Astoria. The list mentions Little Jack Falls but not Beaver Falls, which is odd but not unusual. It could be that because Beaver Falls had missed out on the big dignitary parade of 1915, maybe it had registered with everyone that there was exactly one waterfall along the lower highway, and Beaver Falls was not that waterfall, and there wasn't a second PR blitz in 1920 to convince people otherwise. Dunno.

In any case, with the completion of paving the "Astoria Or Bust" beat quickly stopped being newsworthy, and no further examples of this particular genre graced the Oregonian's pages. Meanwhile, Gregory moved over to the sports page, and remained editor and columnist there until his retirement in 1973. The Oregonian revisited the July 1920 excursion (the Mitchell Scout one) decades later on December 31st 1975 as part of their 125th birthday festivities. A 1976 article explained that the paper's original auto section had been discontinued during the Depression, and the paper's "go drive somewhere and tell us what it was like" columns were scaled back to a single weekly feature, which finally ended in 1974 with the Mideast oil crisis. In 1982 someone at the paper remembered or realized Gregory had briefly been their auto editor decades ago, and some of his original glass plate photos from 1919-1921 were exhibited at that year's Portland Auto Show.

The Oregonian did publish a captioned photo of Beaver Falls on May 7th 1922: "Beaver Creek in High Water Lends Beauty to Lower Columbia Highway"

- photo by Scott Attractive falls bordering highway short distance east of Clatskanie Tourists who travel the lower Columbia river in summer miss much of the beauty which winter and spring bring to this route. Beaver Creek, which parallels the pavement for several miles east of Clatskanie takes the steep grade in riffles, cascades and waterfalls, crossing and recrossing the highway. In winter the stream is quickly swollen with rains on the logged-off hills around it, but in summer it dwindles away to a small creek. Beaver falls, once the power site of a sawmill, but now a ruins, is oneof the most picturesque spots between Portland and Astoria. It marks the high limit which salmon trout and steelheads reach and in early fall and winter its lower stretches are favorite haunts of fishermen from the city.
The accompanying photo shows the same dam and bridge above the falls seen earlier when the mill was operating. Neither are there now, so we have the dam removal narrowed down to an, er, 98 year time window, but that's all the info I've got on that particular detail.

Mentions of Beaver Falls became quite rare after that. There's a 1934 article about the Howard triplets' 18th birthday. Seems they had been born at a logging camp near Beaver Falls in 1916, before the road was complete and it was still a fairly remote area. The triplets had 8 older siblings, the youngest just short of a year old, their mother was 40 when they were born, and they all weighed between 2.5 and 3.5 lbs at birth, were born without a doctor attending, and all survived to at least age 18. Which does actually seem kind of newsworthy, given the era. Because this happened in the early 20th century, there was this little tidbit:

Officials of the state fair board called on the Howards and tried to get their consent to exhibit them at the fair when they were only four months old but the mother refused.
One of the three lived to 1986 and still had a surviving sibling at the time.

In 1940, the WPA Federal Writers Project released Oregon, End of the Trail, a tourist guidebook covering the state's modern highways and what there was to see along them. The Rainier-to-Astoria segment still went down Beaver Creek at that point but didn't mention the falls at all. The Portland-to-Rainier segment did mention Little Jack Falls, so it's not clear to me beats why the guide mentions one and not the other.

I don't have a direct link for when Beaver Creek Road was bypassed, but Recreating the HCRH said it happened in 1955, referencing a 2008 book "Road of Difficulties - Building the Lower Columbia River Highway", which is out of print and Amazon doesn't have in stock, unfortunately.

After being bypassed, Beaver Falls largely fell off the radar, or at least it stopped being newsworthy in Portland. I did find one crime story from 1982 where campers near the falls were pursued and terrorized by a gang of drunk teenagers, causing one of the campers to fall off a 40 foot cliff. I couldn't find a followup story indicating whether the perpetrators were ever caught, or if a gang of drunk 50-somethings is out there to this day, lurking in the forest and preying on unwary tourists. Not the sort of story that makes readers want to visit the place, regardless.

And then nothing much in the paper until the article this summer, plus the handful of useful internet results I dredged up while putting this together, and now the post you're currently reading. Now, I'm not going to claim this here is the definitive page about the place, I mean, I've only been there once, for less than half an hour tops, did not interview anyone for this, etc., but I'm fairly sure this is the longest thing anybody's written about it in quite some time, largely because I kept finding interesting tidbits to add, and I don't have a grumpy chain-smoking editor to keep me from wandering off on tangents and yell at me to just finish the damn blog post already. In any case, this one was fun to write, and I hope it was at least mildly interesting to read.