Showing posts with label Oregon State Parks. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Oregon State Parks. Show all posts

Friday, December 12, 2025

Lewis & Clark State Park

Next up we're visiting Lewis & Clark State Park, at the west end of the Columbia Gorge just across the Sandy River from downtown Troutdale. Let me start off by saying this post is not an adventure through pristine wilderness; the the park's essentially a glorified highway rest area -- it officially opened in October 1955 along with the nearby segment of I-84 -- surrounded by a few recreation options. (The park is classified as a "State Recreation Site", if we're going to split hairs.) The park is best known as a Sandy River access point for fishing and boating, and the high bluffs above the river have become a popular rock climbing spot in recent decades. The park is not famous for hiking, but it does have a few trails, and that's what we're here to check out. None of them are very long and most are easy, but one has sort of a weird mystery associated with it, which we'll get to in a bit. And don't miss the historical odds and ends down at the bottom, stuff that didn't fit anywhere else.

  1. Lewis & Clark Nature Trail
  2. Broughton Bluff Trail
  3. Lewis & Clark Trail No. 400

So the first trail, and the only one with a sign, is the "Lewis & Clark Nature Trail", which is a mostly-paved loop around the landscaped "rest area" part of the park, with a few signs describing various native plants. In practice I imagine it's largely used by people and dogs who need a stretch after a long drive along I-84. When I started writing this post I sort of assumed the trail and the dated, weathered sign were original features of the park, but it turns out they were added in 1980 for the 175th anniversary of the Lewis & Clark expedition camping here for a bit in November 1805. And yes, a bit of my surprise is due to being of just the right age where 1955 is ancient history, while 1980 is a year I have clear childhood memories of, and therefore things from then cannot possibly look dated or weathered. (And yes, I have yet another birthday this month, why do you ask?)

An April 1980 Oregon Journal article described the upcoming trail:

When completed, the trail will feature many of the 150 flowers, shrubs, and trees identified and described by Capts. Meriwether Lewis and William Clark in their journals which, besides an account of their travels, were a compendium of scientific data covering botany and other disciplines. The one-half mile loop trail, with a gravel covering, is in place and site preparation has been finished. Only a start has been made on the plantings.

The article then notes that they only had Oregon grapes in place so far, but a vine maple was coming soon. The article continued:

Plans are in progress for various planting areas to be “adopted” by garden clubs, civic and educational groups, each to plant and maintain its own plot. Twenty-two such groups have been enlisted so far. ... The nature trail is a project of the Oregon Lewis and Clark Trail Committee, chaired by Dr. E.G. Chuinard, Portland orthopedic surgeon. Dr. Chuinard is a nationally known Lewis and Clark scholar, and the trail has been a dream of his for many years.

The article goes on to mention that, as an orthopedic surgeon, he was proud that the new trail would be wheelchair-accessible, at least by the pre-ADA standards of 1980. Chuinard later wrote a book that more or less combined his professional and personal interests “Only One Man Died, the Medical Aspects of the Lewis & Clark Expedition”

An August 1979 Oregonian article described the proposal in similar terms, adding that this would be a great new use for the park, replacing the overnight campground that had been there since the park opened. Apparently the campground was considered a nuisance and drew 'undesirable' people to the area, though I'm not sure whether that meant partiers or something worse. A November 1978 letter to the Oregon Journal opposing removal of the campground explained that it was the only low-income camping option for people passing through the area in the summer, and Ainsworth was (and is) the closest alternative, much further from Portland and Troutdale. The Oregonian article went on to quote someone with the State Parks Division who hoped they'd be able to get rid of the adjacent dirt bike area just north of the park as that was considered a nuisance too.

1979, the oregonian editorialized in favor of the trail. The editorial board may not have paid close attention to the proposal up to this point, and it's hard to imagine a bunch of cynical old-school newspapermen caring a whit about gardening, but one historical constant about the Oregonian, from the 1850s to the present day, is that they will always endorse any proposal that involves being mean to poor people, whether as a deliberate goal, or as foreseeable collateral damage. So with this editorial, the project was virtually a done deal.

The nature trail was dedicated in October 1980. For the big event, the paper interviewed Roger Mackaness, a Corbett landscape architect, nursery owner, and part-time Job Corps instructor, who was handling the practical side of the project, translating Chuinard's daydream into an actual garden full of live plants.

“I can’t guarantee that anything will grow”, said Mackaness, explaining that certain plants such as sagebrush and prickly pear have to be grown from seed. “Eastern Oregon plants take special care.” Varieties of plants to be found on the trail include cliff dwellers, desert lovers, high mountain and shore plants, he said. Making the task even more difficult, the plants will be ordered in the manner in which Lewis and Clark discovered them, and each planting will be landscaped to mirror the topography found in the plant’s natural habitat. “This will be a trailhead for a 90 mile hike to The Dalles”, Mackaness said. “In the 1/4 mile nature trail you could see the same kind of plant life you’d see if you hiked to The Dalles.”

The article goes on to explain that the plantings should be complete in another two years or so. An Oregonian article on the trail dedication notes that the trail had been in the works since 1974, and the very first mention of it I saw came in a 1975 article by Chuinard, which mentions that a group in Charlottesville, VA was proposing an "all the Lewis & Clark plants" garden there.

In April 1982, a Lewis and Clark mini-garden opened at the Oregon Zoo, featuring some of the same plants, with Chuinard and other members of the trail committee in attendance. The Journal assured readers that

The new garden also is intended to complement, not compete with, the nature trail at Lewis and Clark State Park near the mouth of the Sandy River, which, when completed, will have examples of all or most of the plants identified in the Oregon country by the famous explorers. A sign in the zoo garden calls attention to the Sandy River project.

It's not clear what happened after that, as the Oregon Journal went out of business later that year and they covered the garden effort much more closely than the Oregonian ever did. Probably the same thing that often happens with efforts that start as one person's dream and that rely on volunteers to keep going. Especially when that one person was already a retiree and eventually retires "for real" from civic efforts too and moves out of the area to be near family, as the Chuinards did in 1987. He had already moved on to a new project at that point, trying to persuade the city to build a Lewis and Clark museum out at Kelley Point Park. He and the committee had originally wanted to build the museum here, piggybacking on a proposed ODOT port of entry, as Chuinard explained in a 1984 op-ed in the Oregonian.

He argued this was a great location for a museum (although the State Parks Division and environmental groups disagreed) and a logical follow-up for the still-incomplete nature trail. The museum would have been located in the still-barren 12 acre plot north of the 'main' park, between the railroad and I-84, which I think is where the county's short-lived offroad motorcycle park was located during the 1970s. an August 1985 article has more details about the proposal.

The problem with the trail, Chuinard said, is that the flowers do not bloom at the same time, and most are not at their peak during the short season of pleasant weather in the Columbia Gorge, when visitors are not subjected to rain or the cold east wind.

Which is true of the entire Northwest, frankly. He went on to suggest that we were rapidly falling behind Washington State in both quantity and quality of Lewis & Clark visitor centers, which is an odd sort of arms race to have. But I suppose that was how things got funded in 1984.

The present-day trail does not exactly look as though it has 22+ garden clubs and civic groups avidly maintaining their individual plots. Some of the signage has been updated fairly recently, though, possibly for the Lewis & Clark bicentennial in 2005. One of the newer signs concerns native medicinal plants, and has a sidebar snarking about the Lewis & Clark expedition dosing themselves to the gills with mercury and other toxic patent medicines of the era, I guess for a little contrast. Which is a fair point, and not one a circa-1980 sign would have mentioned, necessarily, even if the nature trail's main proponent wrote an entire book on the subject.


The second trail is an obvious but unnamed trail that heads south and upward from the landscaped area. This is the access trail for the popular rock climbing area along the southwest-facing part of Broughton Bluff. This area is enormously popular when weather permits, which was not the case the day I visited. Which is great if (like me) you just want to take photos of the rocks and not try going up them. I only followed the trail to the point where you're looking almost straight down at the old Columbia River Highway bridge over the Sandy River, but I gather it dead-ends at the state park property line, not much further south from there. The potentially-climbable cliffs continue for a while south from there, but they're on private property and it seems the owners don't want the liability issues, and also don't want to sell. In terms of the trail having other features, there's one small and (as far as I know) unnamed waterfall along the way. I don't know whether it runs year round or it's just seasonal. Either way, I can't say it's worth going out of your way to see if you aren't there to climb any rocks, given all of the vastly better hiking options a few miles to the east. Small bit of trivia here, the place is named for a junior officer on the the George Vancouver expedition who made it roughly this far upriver, and is best known for naming Mt. Hood and Mt. St. Helens, along with a bunch of other names that didn't stick, like calling the Sandy the "Barings River", after the British bank that imploded in 1995 after a rogue trader lost all their money. Broughton didn't name the bluff after himself, though. That came later, after a 1926 lobbying campaign by local Girl Scouts.

In addition to the main trail, a scramble route goes to the top of the bluff, starting right at the point where the main trail rounds the sharp corner from the north face of the bluff to the southwest face. I only found out this existed afterward so I don't have any photos from the top, but blog posts at Casing Oregon and Columbia River Gorgeous include photos from up there, and a video from TheCascadeHiker shows both trails, first the main one, then backtracking to the one to the top. Unfortunately the park boundary also runs along or very close to the top of the bluff so you can't really go anywhere once you've made it to the top. A century ago (early November 1920) you could take a streetcar here from downtown Portland, climb the bluff (which went by "Troutdale Butte" back then) and then east and up to the top of Chamberlain Hill and back, but I get the impression that hikers and climbers and random tourists wore out their welcome here decades ago. In any event it's just ordinary farm country up there once you're away from the edge, and not one of those weird Venezuelan islands in the sky, especially not the kind with dinosaurs. Could be worse, though; if Portland's urban growth boundary didn't exist, the entire top of the bluff would likely be a nasty gated community full of ugly McMansions, and security goons from the HOA would pour boiling oil down on anyone who dared to climb here. So there's that.

As it is, the top of the bluff is just ordinary farm country growing normal farm products. It did have one brief brush with semi-importance back in 1961, when the top of Broughton Bluff was part of an elaborate surveying project by the US Coast & Geodetic Survey, the agency behind all of those pre-GPS vintage survey markers. This project involved a team of engineers, families in tow, traveling from place to place, marking and surveying, building and disassembling survey towers, measuring and remeasuring until the exact position of everything was nailed down to 1/300th of an inch, then going somewhere else and starting the process all over again, like the world's nerdiest traveling circus. I imagine that probably made for a weird childhood. The article mentions that the survey had been delayed by higher-priority projects like laying out Cold War missile bases.

September 1974 article on climbing here, mentions in passing that there are a few other things to do, like smelt dipping (no longer possible since the smelt runs collapsed in the 80s), camping (replaced by the garden), and dirt bike riding (also abolished, and replaced by an empty lot). While chain smoking or working your way through a case of Blitz beer or both whenever you had a hand free.


And finally, at the far corner of the landscaped triangle, an unsigned trail heads east into the forest, and off the edge of most maps of the park. It's clearly a "real" trail, constructed by people who knew what they were doing, and not just a random use path, and it seems to get some level of regular maintenance, and you get the distinct impression that a trail like this is bound to go somewhere interesting, sign or no sign. So you keep going, doing a roughly flat, roughly straight traverse east, part of the way up the bluff and parallel to I-84 and the railroad (which you are never out of earshot of). But after a couple of miles it just sort of fades out and ends, and you can either turn back at that point or try bushwhacking further for a while and then turn back. The only real destination along the way is a stretch with several house-sized boulders toward the end of the (obvious) trail, known to local climbers as "The Zone". I can't say it's an amazing nature experience, but if you think of it as more of a very easterly city park along the lines of Portland's Forest Park, it's actually not that bad. I feel like I need to say this because the OregonHikers page about the trail snarks about it (which is quite uncharacteristic for them), saying they only did it just for the sake of completeness.

So why is there a trail here, if it just sort of ends at a random spot in the forest? That isn't typically what trails do. One clue is that although there's no sign for the trail in the park, if you look at the right maps you'll see occasional scattered references to it here and there calling it the "Lewis and Clark Trail 400" or some variation thereof. (I'm almost positive the name also appeared on an official PDF map of the park at one point, but I can't seem to find a link to that map now.) The "400" is the key detail: Under the longstanding trail numbering scheme in the Gorge (which I think is a Forest Service thing, although some trails on state land use it as well in the name of consistency), trails are all numbered 400-something, (other than the Gorge bit of the Pacific Crest Trail, which is #2000 for its whole length), and the number 400 was reserved early on for a hypothetical east-west trail stretching 90 miles or so from Portland out to Hood River or possibly The Dalles, depending on who you ask. This trail has never really existed over that full distance, but a few segments do, and it's slowly grown (and occasionally shrunk) over time when people take an interest in the idea for a while and funding becomes available. A couple of segments further east are known as the Gorge Trail #400, which I'm sure I've mentioned here once or twice. So right now the official west end of the westernmost existing chunk of Gorge Trail is at Angels Rest, which is obviously nowhere close to Troutdale, and that's how it's been for decades. That is, except for the obscure bit of dead-end trail we're visiting here. Which I guess makes it the trail equivalent of a freeway ghost ramp.

Note that Trail #400 is not the same thing as the under-construction Historic Columbia River Highway trail. It covers more or less the same ground but is a very different proposal, a paved path aimed primarily at road cyclists, often immediately next to the freeway, and encompassing surviving bits of the old highway where possible. I've walked on a few parts of it, and it's fine, I guess, but it's nobody's idea of a relaxing nature experience. And since the entire theme of the effort is around the old highway, the initial part of the route involves riding on the old road, sharing it with Winnebagos and monster SUVs and so forth. Which is not doable at all if you're on foot.

It's also not the same thing as the Hatfield Memorial Trail, which is supposed to be an east-west backcountry route, staying as far away from civilization as possible under the circumstances. A trail along these lines was proposed by the Sierra Club way back in 1971, and a fairly long route can be assembled out of parts of several existing trails, though some of these trails receive little or no Forest Service maintenance and it's an ongoing struggle to keep them from being taken back by the forest.

An early version of that idea (or part of it) was the proposed Talapus Trail, which would have connected Larch Mountain to Wahtum Lake by way of the Bull Run Watershed, a large area that's normally closed to all public access because it's the primary source of Portland's drinking water supply. I am not sure how that was supposed to work, whether they were going to tweak the closure boundary or just accept that a few backcountry hikers wouldn't be a problem, or they just hadn't figured that out yet. The notion being kicked around as early as 1974 (back when calling it "Hatfield Memorial" would have alarmed Senator Hatfield), and an August 1980 article was already looking ahead to a third east-west linkage once Gorge Trail #400 and the Talapus route were done and dusted. This third route would have run right along the Columbia shoreline, which isn't even on anyone's long-term ideas list anymore, as far as I've seen. It always shocks me to see how many grand plans of the 60s and 70s came to a crashing halt on election day 1980; I'm sure that there were a few clunker ideas in there, but I'd love to go visit the timeline where the entire Reagan Administration never happened, and the wingnuts and their ideas never took over, and just see how the year 2020 played out over there versus here. It can't have been worse, anyway

The notion of a Trail 400 that specifically started here seems to have burst onto the scene in 1979 with the state's new Columbia Gorge parks master plan, which envisioned what it called a "low-level gorge trail":

Proposed development of trail head parking for the "low level gorge trail", which, when fully completed, will complete a link for hikers from Troutdale to The Dalles, a distance of 90 miles. Portions of the trail have been completed, but access through some western properties is still being examined.

Toward the end of the article it mentions that funding was uncertain, and construction probably wouldn't begin until 1981-83 on any of the listed projects, and that was dependent on federal money coming through. Other interesting and sadly unbuilt ones include a trail between Rooster Rock and Latourell Falls, and a railroad underpass connecting Wahkeena Falls and Benson State Park. The plan mentions that the old Rooster Rock Wagon Road -- which we visited a few years ago in the Palisade Falls post -- would connect to the low-level trail as it passed through the area.

So the first problem with the trail and the rest of these grand plans was the date: 1979 was immediately before Ronald Reagan was elected and began slashing non-military budgets, and stomping on anything that looked vaguely environmental just to spite the hippies. The envisioned construction period also overlapped with Oregon's deep multiyear recession of the 1980s. So without money or political interest, the project fell by the wayside and has never been revived, just like other grand projects of the 1970s like switching to the metric system.

As for why it stops where it does, the current trail extends past the eastern edge of the park and out onto Forest Service land for a while, and remains largely federal as far as the Corbett area other than some assorted bits of ODOT-owned land and one stretch owned by the Union Pacific railroad. It's as if the state built as much as they could on their own and then the feds never picked up the baton. As for the railroad bit, I didn't see anything saying they were blocking the proposal, which I think would've been newsworthy if that had happened. I did see that they'd tried subdividing it into residential(?) lots at one point but didn't sell any of them, and the land hasn't been buildable since 1986 due to National Scenic Area rules). So maybe they'd still be up for selling that area, or at least doing an easement for a trail, though I obviously have no way to know that.

November 1981 - Multnomah County closed a mile of Henderson Road between Latourell & Bridal Veil, though holding on to the old right-of-way to maybe become part of trail #400 someday. The article mentions that the old road had once been part of the 1870s wagon road between the Sandy River and The Dalles. I gather the steep, long-closed, long-forgotten (but again never-vacated) Latourell Hill Road was once part of the old wagon route too, but I don't know if it was ever envisioned as a trail route.

Small calendar item from September 30th 1983, noting volunteers could come join a "work party clearing new low-level Gorge Trail No. 400 east from Lewis & Clark State Park".

Further east, the state was trying to arrange a land swap with the federal Bureau of Land Management for land further east along the proposed trail route; the article describes the 2 mile long parcel as 100 acres of steep north-facing bluffs next to the rail line, but I can't pin down which parcel they're talking about or who owns it now. The Friends of the Columbia Gorge was strongly opposed to the idea. It seems that a couple of rare and potentially endangered plants were known to live in the area: Sullivantia oregana and Dodecatheon dentatum, and the Friends figured they would no longer be protected properly with the plants in state hands. Thinking BLM would do a better job than the state would of protecting the environment seems a bit odd in the 2020s but maybe things were different back then.

The trail also ran into a degree of local opposition, as the park had a sketchy reputation back in those days, beyond the usual urban legends about highway rest areas. The trail was proposed around the same time the campground was removed, and the county-run dirtbike park next door was still there, and rural residents to the east found it easy to imagine the trail would funnel an urban crime wave in their direction. For example, a 1979 article about a longtime resident of the tiny town of Latourell (it's just downhill from Latourell Falls, but not visible from the Gorge highway) raised concerns about a proposal in the new state plan to turn a local historic house into a youth hostel for people through-hiking the new trail. Local residents strongly opposed the idea, the word "youth" being even more loaded then than it is now.

As another example, a 1982 article lamenting that 37 different government agencies were involved in managing the Sandy River area. mentioned rowdy campers at Dodge Park as one of the issues facing the area, holding all-night beer parties and such and driving away respectable visitors. A State Parks representative mentioned that similar problems had receded at Lewis & Clark after the campground had been removed. Other people wanted to talk about habitat protection, but the paper reported that toward the end, after the lurid stuff and the riling people up about big gummint bureaucrats.

By 1984 the Oregonian was wringing its hands again about the now campground-free, dirtbike-free park, as the area nearby saw its second homicide in as many years. I haven't looked up the news stories about those but it sounds like both were related to arguments between transients. The mayor of Troutdale was freaking out and blaming the park, conveniently outside city limits. A spokesman for the county sheriff's office explained that "Other than those two murders, we have no phenomenal problem at Lewis and Clark state park", to which the mayor responded "Don't you think one murder a year is too much?", as if this was now a long term trend. The article went on to lump in a recent homicide at a truck stop half a mile away, a sexual assault in Troutdale Community Park (now Glenn Otto Park) three years earlier, and the general unruly crowd atmosphere at Glenn Otto as if those were valid data points about Lewis & Clark being scary. I've complained before about how bad crime reporting was in the 80s, but it still startles me. Nobody was even trying to figure out actual cause and effect, just pointing fingers at everything randomly and freaking out even further when that approach didn't move the needle.

Despite all that, the effort forged ahead for another couple of years. Here's a 1985 interview with the Oregon State Parks regional administrator. The article explains that a trail from Troutdale to Hood River had been a longtime dream of his, noting however that some of the remaining parts would be expensive, like at Tooth Rock west of Eagle Creek. There's also a bit about another then-ongoing project to build a four-mile trail between Bridal Veil and Latourell Falls, with improved views of the falls at Shepperds Dell, which I imagine would have doubled as another Trail #400 segment. Seems this was never constructed either, which is a shame. The interview was in conjunction with the grand opening of another Gorge Trail segment further east, between Ainsworth and Yeon State Parks. Unfortunately that entire segment was destroyed by an enormous landslide in 1996 and has never been rebuilt.

Someone giving a presentation about the proposed trail at Portland State in 1986.

The 1986 talk was the last mention of the proposal that I could find in the newspaper archives, but I still had several open questions, like exactly what the intended route was, for example. I ended up looking for old planning documents to see if they offered any more clues, and luckily the 1994 state parks plan for the Gorge mentions the proposed trail a few times. (For whatever reason, all of the state parks department's master plan archives vanished off the net sometime in the last few months as part of a site redesign. But as usual, Archive.org has our back, or mine anyway.) From page 15:

Trail connections and/or trailhead development is proposed for a low elevation route from Lewis and Clark to the OPRD properties just west of Hood River via segments of the HCRH and via other new routes, and from the east side of Hood River to Mosier along the Historic Columbia River Highway (HCRH) to Mosier.

and then on page 26:

Trail use continues to be popular in the Gorge especially at the higher elevations. There has been an effort by recreationists for many years to see the establishment of a series of connections through the gorge at a lower elevation and along the river where possible. Most notable among these efforts are the Historic Columbia River Gorge Highway (HCRH) connection projects, the trail 400 project, and the Chinook Trail.

(If the name "Chinook Trail" is unfamiliar, you aren't alone; I had never heard of it before either, but it's a long-term effort to build a backcountry trail over on the Washington Side of the Gorge, eventually connecting with either the Gorge Trail, or the Hatfield Trail, or a fresh new backcountry trail on the Oregon side to form a big long loop.)

Anyway, in a later section of the plan, we finally get some details about what they had in mind. (The acronym NSA in this context means the then-new Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area, not the shadowy intelligence agency.)

#1 Lewis and Clark to Portland Women's Forum, MP CRGNSA trail proposal No. T27. Trail Maps 1 and 2

OPRD's proposal for this trail deviates from the NSA proposal in that Chamberlain Road is used rather than trying to build a trail through the complex ownerships near Corbett Station. By constructing a pedestrian walk along the county road, a trail connection could be accomplished much sooner and at less expense. Easements will be needed across the north face of Chanticleer Point.

The connection of this trail to Portland Women's Forum cannot be accomplished until parking is expanded at Portland Women's Forum to accommodate the long term parking requirements of trail users. Additional trailhead parking could be developed at the Corbett Station quarry if a suitable trail route from the quarry to Portland Women's Forum or from the Lewis and Clark to Portland Women's Forum trail route could be found.

Google Books has the 1992 Federal management plan for the new scenic area, which describes that proposal in a couple of paragraphs:

Trail Description: The land is primarily in private ownership. This trail would provide a link between the Portland/Vancouver metropolitan area and the Scenic Area. The trail would provide views of both the Columbia River and the pastoral landscape of the western Gorge. This trail would form part of a loop trail that links to the Sandy River Delta Trail. Recreation Intensity Class: mostly 1. Development Proposal: Four miles of new trail are proposed to provide opportunities for hiking and scenic appreciation. There is an existing trailhead opportunity at Lewis and Clark State Park; a parking area is proposed at the existing borrow pit at Corbett Station in the GMA. Some sections of the trail traverse steep bluff lands and would require sophisticated design and construction.

For whatever reason, the Management Plan "as amended thru September 1st 2011" deletes the entire section of concrete proposals and just speaks somewhat vaguely about high level goals.

Getting back to the state plan, it has maps after page 100, which show the trail eventually connecting to the old wagon road between Portland Womens Forum and Rooster Rock, and then making its way over to the Vista House. The maps also show that the proposed trail would be both Trail 400 and the Chinook Trail; following the maps further east, the two routes diverge above Multnomah Falls, Trail 400 following its familiar (if currently closed) route, and the Chinook Trail taking a parallel route further south/uphill, and this arrangement continuing all the way to Hood River. I imagine this would let you hike to Hood River and back mostly as a loop (albeit a long, skinny sort of loop), or put together more reasonably-sized loops out of parts of the two plus connecting trails. The key detail here is that significant chunks of the Chinook route would be new construction, and as the first route to Hood River is not exactly making rapid progress, it feels like building a brand-new second route is a bit of a longer-term vision, to put it mildly. Maybe it'll be ready around the time the gorge has fully regrown from the Eagle Creek fire, who knows.

Metro's 1992 Metropolitan Greenspaces Master Plan described the proposal: "The Chinook Trail is a proposed Columbia River Gorge loop trail that will connect Vancouver Lake, Maryhill State Park, Biggs, and Portland. It will travel in part on existing trails. The concept was formalized in 1988 as a rim-top trail where possible."

These plans only get a very brief mention in the 2011 Master Plan for Lewis & Clark specifically, which mostly focuses on parking and congestion, and improved river access. It does acknowledge that the trail exists and ideas for it are out there, but doesn't propose doing anything about them.

[I]t is a hub for a series of existing and proposed trails that will eventually connect Portland with the City of Hood River. This includes an eventual link with the famous “40-Mile Loop” trail network on the east side of the Sandy River on federal and state land and with cycling routes along the Historic Columbia River Highway

and a few pages later:

There is a walking trail at the foot of Broughton Bluff along the edge of the lawn that extends northeast along the north face of the bluff at least as far as the eastern property boundary.

The state's 2015 Gorge master plan (which I guess supersedes the 1994 plan) more or less includes the 2011 plan by reference and repeats the ideas from there (chapter 8, pages 148-149, here). The map on page 149 incorrectly shows the trail heading off onto private property, which (as I noted above) is not actually true. Which is not an encouraging sign.

More recently, Metro -- Portland's regional government, which runs Oxbow Park further south on the Sandy (among many other things) -- has taken an interest in the long-running proposed trail, calling it the "Lower Columbia Gorge Trail". A 2014 map from Metro shows it as a "proposed regional trail" heading east off the map as a connection from Portland to the Gorge. The agency's 2017 "Green Trails" guide describes it as one of several future "inter-regional" trails, along with the Willamette Greenway south to Eugene-or-so, and two routes west to different destinations on the coast. The interesting thing about this is that, per a 2019 map, the "Sandy River Connections" project area is one of 24 "acquisition target areas" where they're interested in buying land or paying for easements. Historically they've just been interested in property along the Sandy, but the maps shows their "ok to buy within this area" radius, which looks like some number of miles past the urban growth boundary, and everything out to Rooster Rock seems to be fair game, in theory. And it's basically all state and federal land east of there, so that might be sufficient to fill in the gaps. Metro has local bond money specifically dedicated for this, too, where the state rarely does, and the feds are rarely interested these days (though that might change after the inauguration in January, unless Trump blows up the world before that.)

Which brings us to a "Now What?" section. For the sake of argument, let's assume first that schools, healthcare, housing, antipoverty programs and other concrete human needs are being funded properly, and there's money left over after that, and we don't need to have a zero-sum argument over what to cut in order to build something new. Let's also assume that within the recreation budget, maintenance and repair is already funded, so we aren't trading off against restoring Eagle Creek and other fire-damaged areas, reviving ones that were abandoned or relegated to unmaintained status like the old Perdition Trail at Multnomah Falls, the viewpoint at the top of Wahkeena Falls, and so on.

This is not the most wild or scenic stretch of the route. not aware of any key points of interest along the route, and land ownership around corbett is an issue. and I'm not personally sold that it would be important enough to buy except from willing sellers. the current thing that attracts funding is the bike-centric HCRH Trail, which follows the 1916 route of the old highway. eventually there may be an interest in doing the same thing for the circa-1940 pre-I-84 water-level route (per the Tunnel Point post), for cyclists who'd like to skip the tourist traffic (or just the additional elevation gain and loss) along the initial chunk of old highway. So a hiking trail could maybe piggyback on that in spots where there isn't space or money to build both. with or without HCRH trail involvement, one slightly-outside-the-box idea might be to cross the overpass at Corbett and walk along the river for a bit, either to Rooster Rock (where there's another existing overpass) or maybe to a new pedestrian bridge over I-84 at Tunnel Point and heading east from there to squeeze past Palisade Falls


  • The very first piece of the park that the state owned was actually the gravel parking area just across the river from Glenn Otto Park, purchased way back in July 1936, probably for the sake of public fishing access. They don't appear to have named it right away, and the old survey map for it just calls it "Parking Area".
  • land acquired in 1954 in a 3-way deal: Timber co. buys the land, swaps it for non-scenic BLM land elsewhere, BLM donates it to the state. Article says the goal was to eventually assemble a big park running the whole length of the gorge, which I suppose the National Scenic Area basically is.
  • September 1955 article on the soon-to-open park
  • An article from December 1965 about what would eventually become Estacada's Milo McIver State Park explained that it was needed as a safety valve because existing parks along the Sandy and Columbia were overflowing with visitors. Rooster Rock and Dabney each attracted 250k visitors that year, and Lewis & Clark pulled in 350k people, who were packed into the park's "anemic" 56 acres like an "outdoor sardine can". For contrast, in 2019 Rooster Rock was the 19th most visited state park with 667k visitors, down 29% from the previous year for some reason. I can't find numbers for the others since they didn't make the top 20, or the bottom 20.

    A 1965 article inventorying parks and recreational opportunities in East Multnomah County mentioned Lewis & Clark as one of the area's shiniest and newest parks, and explained that we would soon need even more parks like it. The author explained that in the time before white settlers arrived, local tribes had a word for the ennui that comes with having too much free time and no work that needed doing, in the months after the salmon and berries had been dried for the winter and so forth. He argued a similar situation was looming for Americans of the near future: "The Portland urban dweller of A.D. 2000 — perhaps even sooner — will find himself suffering from the same malady, what with the coming 30- and 20-hour week, the extended leisure time, and an increasingly easy life." .

  • October 1967, in the upcoming election Troutdale voters were being asked to approve a controversial sewer bond issue, which on one hand would result in the city no longer dumping raw sewage into the river, just upstream of the park's public beaches. On the other hand, doing this would cost money.
  • 1969, a Multnomah County Commissioner was bound and determined to site a new metro-area garbage dump in the sandy river delta, just downstream, although locals opposed the idea. Residents must have prevailed eventually, since there's no dump there now.
  • A 1969 article explained that conventional wisdom among local park rangers -- including one responsible for both Dabney and Lewis & Clark -- was that out-of-state visitors were typically cleaner and nicer than local residents, contradicting a widespread public notion of the time. A visiting family from Pendleton at Lewis & Clark reported that someone had knocked their tent over, accusing them of being Californians and demanding that they leave the state.
  • August 1970, county turned down a proposed rock quarry south of the park, after turning down another proposal in corbett, 2 miles from Crown Point. The developer couldn't see why people opposed the idea, explaining that the quarrying was temporary and he planned to build houses on the site as soon as the mining phase was done.
  • August 1971, park hosted a unit of Green Berets who were retracing the Lewis & Clark route for some reason.
  • October 1972, bit about historical sites being gobbled up by development. seemed to focus on lewis & clark sites, including here, which had no historical marker at the time. gov. mccall promised to fix that particular detail
  • May 1974 E.G. Chuinard of the Lewis & Clark Trail Committee (seen above/later) writes in response to an earlier editorial about typos on a sign at the park. He explains that the typos are how Lewis & Clark spelled things and are thus historical in nature and not incorrect.
  • the aforementioned editorial, titled "History in Misspelled Words".
  • the coming-soon article
  • the unveiling, with photo
  • December 1975, a columnist waxing on about a seasonal waterfall a bit upstream of the park. (w/ photo)
  • March 1976, the county had leased land for the motorcycle park as an alternative after passing a restrictive off-road vehicle ordinance. forgot to rezone the land for the new use at first. . a story on the same page mentions the shiny new Trojan Nuclear Plant was being swarmed by smelt and had to report it to the feds.
  • March 1977, report on the annual smelt run
  • September 1977: In an extremely 1970s episode, the park was the destination of a 5 mile river race from Dabney State Park, sponsored by the local 7-Up bottler and US Army recruiters, as one of many local festivities organized around the annual Jerry Lewis Telethon. (!!) Local telethon content was hosted by Ramblin' Rod. Other events included a 3-day CB radio jamboree, and a disco car wash at Beaverton Mall. leading up to this were a few weeks of danceathons, skateathons, bike races, raft races, waffle feeds, and shoot outs.
  • July 1978, mentioned on a list of good picnic spots around the state. The list is interesting. hagg lake, blue lake, baldock rest area were state parks, cook park was washington county, belle view point was publicly accessible
  • May 1981, legislative hearing endorses the so-called "40 mile loop", now "the intertwine", which
  • August 1981, adjacent county land had been operated as a motorcycle park, but closed due to budget cuts. Recall that the county had opened it after an ordinance cracked down on offroad motorcycles. But closing the motorcycle facility did not revive o

Sunday, June 08, 2025

Waespe Falls

Next up we're visiting Waespe Falls, one of the tall seasonal waterfalls between Multnomah Falls and Oneonta Creek. This is a short distance east from Nesika Falls, its equally obscure neighbor just down the road. Of the two, this one has probably been glimpsed by more people; if you start at the Oneonta trailhead and follow the trail uphill a short distance to the junction with Gorge Trail #400. Just west of there the 400 crosses a small stream. If the creek is flowing, look uphill from there. It's a steep talus slope mixed with trees and vegetation, and includes a bit of old stone wall that -- I think -- was built as a rockslide barrier and isn't part of an abandoned road or trail. Beyond that and higher up, the steep slope becomes a high basalt cliff, and the falls are where the nearby creek tumbles off that cliff. Alternately if the creek is flowing and the forest isn't too overgrown it may be visible on Street View, like here for example.

Like Nesika, the name is of fairly recent origin and either originated or was popularized on the OregonHikers forums. In particular, the oldest references to it by name -- any name -- that I've seen anywhere on the interwebs are a pair of 2011 OregonHikers threads. Which were followed by later ones in 2013 and 2022, and most of these involved someone bushwhacking up to the falls by following the creek straight uphill. Some people reported that the climb was "easy", while others found it impossible, mostly due to all the loose rocks they had to struggle through. One of the posters who made it to the base posted some photos to SmugMug like this one. And those links along with the Northwest Waterfall Survey page linked up above are about the only information there is about it online.

The name is also not official, or really recognized much beyond the Northwest hiking and waterfall hunting corners of the internet. It's derived from Waespe Point, a prominent rock formation next door to the falls. And the point was named in 1983 to honor the late Henry Waespe, a prominent local citizen and president of the Trails Club in the 1950s. I have no idea how to pronounce that name properly, but I think the name of the falls should be pronounced "wispy" even if he didn't say it that way himself, because it just sort of fits that way.

Waespe Falls, LIDAR

As with Nesika Falls, Waespe Falls is rather tall (when it hasn't run dry for the year), and there are no published numbers on exactly how tall. So let's go back to Oregon's official state LIDAR map and see if we can figure that out. On the state LIDAR map, with both the "Bare Earth Lidar Hillshade" and "Bare Earth Slope (degrees)" enabled, pick two points on the creek that are as close to what appears to be the top and bottom of the falls, without actually being part of any vertical drop. The lowest-slope points you can find on either end, so ideally the top is just before the stream abruptly falls off a cliff, and the bottom point is anywhere on the perfectly flat and calm pool the falls drop into. If you don't try to do this, your results may vary widely depending on exactly which pixel you clicked on this time and exactly how the map converts that into six decimal places of latitude and longitude. I like to try this a couple of times to see whether the numbers are anything close to reproducible. In any case it might be useful to think of this as giving an upper bound, like you probably won't come in short of the actual height unless you're doing it all wrong. So, bearing that in mind, and note that I'm counting what looks like three adjacent tiers together as one big waterfall (and using these top and bottom points), it seems to be around 425' high, roughly the same height as Nesika.

Since I was in the area, so to speak, I did the same thing with a couple of other intermittent streams in the short distance between Waespe Falls and Oneonta Gorge. The first one east of Waespe comes to "just" 240' and may disappear into a talus slope after that. (top, bottom), while the next-east one from there seems to come to around 650' in 4 distinct tiers (top, bottom), and a third immediately east of that (top, bottom) comes in at around 385' in 3 tiers, and it also seems to sink into the ground below the drop. So none of these are going to be very substantial and I don't recall ever seeing any of them flowing in person, either close up or from a distance. I suspect they go beyond "seasonal" into "ephemeral" territory and only flow during and maybe right after a big rainstorm and are otherwise dry year-round. I tend to draw a line there as for what's included in this ongoing project, for the very practical reason that if something only flows during a big storm, it means you have to do a lot of hiking during big storms. And in this part of the world, doing that means spending a lot of additional time being cold and miserable, which I am generally opposed to.

Meanwhile to the west of Waespe, between it and Nesika Falls, is the big talus slope that's home to the "Fire Escape Trail", which we already covered in the Nesika post.

Also (going by the very terse directions) the falls might become an ice climbing spot known (as of 2019) as Unfinished Business; Northwest Oregon Rock (published that year) noted it was about 200' high and up to that point nobody had climbed it past the first 80 feet or so. We haven't had a lot of extended cold snaps since 2019 around here, so that matter may still be unfinished, as far as I know. I can tell you it won't be me who climbs it; I only bought the book because it's kind of a whole alternate geography overlaid on a part of the world I know reasonably well, and because it turns out that some of the best ice climbing spots in the Gorge double as very photogenic (yet very obscure) seasonal waterfalls when they aren't frozen.

I checked the Oregonian database to see if anyone mentioned seeing a waterfall near the Oneonta trailhead before the internet. I don't think I found anything like that, but somehow came away with a bunch of links anyway. As usual, this is the part of the post where it helps to have a Multnomah County library card so that the links below actually take you somewhere useful.

(If I wanted to go off on a very long tangent here, and thought anyone might be interested enough to read it, or I was interested enough to write it anyway, Waespe's family was socially prominent enough that you could assemble a whole biography of him just from newspaper articles. From birth announcement to obit, with society weddings and business and philanthropic stuff in between, and leading a lot of Trails Club hikes over the years. But that would be quite a long tangent and if you're really that curious you're welcome to get out your Multnomah County library card and go write that book (or at least a Wikipedia bio, or something).)

  • An October 1934 story on the shiny new Horsetail-Oneonta Loop, just completed by WPA workers. The author describes both creeks in great detail, including a number of side trails that are either lost or abandoned now, like one to what it called "Pathfinder falls", a pair of waterfalls between Triple Falls and the first trail bridge on Oneonta Creek (there's a second bridge above Triple Falls, and maybe more further up.) One of those would have to be Upper Oneonta Falls (or Middle depending on whose naming scheme you use), but I have no idea what the other one would be. The article doesn't mention anything Waespe-like, but at the end he does say there are a lot more sights and side trails beyond those he just told us about.
  • A 1939 story about good picnic spots in the Gorge. Says people overlook the trailhead and just think of the Oneonta Gorge itself, which is basically still true, even though it's been closed since 2017 due to the fire. The trailhead itself isn't very photogenic on its own.
  • A 1953 story concerning a timber swap between the Forest Service and a timber company that preserved some land along Oneonta Creek, trading for land of equal value somewhere outside the Gorge. A little mixing business with philanthropy: You get positive headlines, and the equal value swap gets you more land and trees. The article suggests the swap would make possible an alarming idea that was making the rounds at the time:

    Its becoming a part of the public preserve will make more feasible a road up the Oneonta trail, which would cross the Oneonta near a triple falls and approach the upper Horsetail falls before descending again at Ainsworth state park on the old Columbia highway.
  • A 1970Leverett Richards article on the Horsetail-Oneonta loop, which he refers to as a "granny trail". Mentions that the trail forks near the end and you should take the right fork to get down to the highway. Doesn't say where the other fork goes, assume it's some predecessor of Trail 400 but it seems a bit early for that.
  • In a sign that the 1970s really were an extremely long time ago, a 1971 story about Multnomah County sheriffs deputies setting up a sting to catch car prowlers. Now they just sort of accept that nothing can be done about it, any more than you can affect the weather, and it's probably your fault anyway for having objects (valuable or otherwise) in your car, and really for going outside in the first place when you should be in church or cowering at home watching Fox News.
  • November 1979 Roberta Lowe article in the Oregon Journal, laying out a hike starting at the deeply obscure Exit 35 trailhead and ending at the Oneonta trailhead, these points chosen because Trail 400 on either side of those was still unfinished. For people looking for an advanced challenge, this article -- in a major urban daily newspaper -- explains how to find the 'infamous' Mystery Trail, which (almost) nobody on the internet will even give you directions to now because someone might try it and get hurt. You can be sure it's dangerous when even she says not to go beyond the first 3/10 mile on it, though she also insists that initial segment is a "fun side trip". I should note that present-day conventional wisdom holds that this is a down-only trail and taking it uphill would be an ridiculous idea. On the other hand, the newspaper archives show Mazamas hikes doing exactly that on a semi-regular basis back in the 1930s and 1940s, and the instructions don't say anything about bringing a can of spinach to chug for energy, so who knows.
  • March 1980, Lowe on the nearly complete Ak-Wanee Trail, an old name for the Multnomah-Oneonta segment of Trail 400. Mentions the Elevator Shaft branch and the abandoned spur trail to Nesika Falls, but nothing about another seasonal falls near the Oneonta trailhead. Does mention the unnamed 'turnout' for the 400 down from Nesika Falls at least
  • July 1982, some killjoy editor must have pestered Roberta Lowe to cover some hikes for mere mortals for a change. Her idea of this was setting up a car shuttle and doing the Oneonta Trail as a "lazy, downhill trip" from the top of Larch Mountain. Which, yes, is downhill. For 8 miles. And to spice up the trip without making the hike itself harder, she notes that you can shave 8.5 miles off the car shuttling part of the trip by taking Palmer Mill Road (a steep, narrow gravel road, at times with a sheer dropoff into Bridal Veil Creek) instead of driving all the way west to the ordinary Larch Mtn. Rd. junction west of the Vista House. You can still do the lower part of that to where Palmer is closed to vehicle traffic and then follow Brower Rd. up instead, which saves miles but not as many. Energy crisis was barely in the rear view mirror then, and we have high gas prices and inflation again now, so I'm not telling you not to do this; just saying it's not exactly a luxurious driving experience, and your vehicle is probably larger (and wider) than the average car of 1982.
  • It was back to business as usual in August, with a 9.6 mile loop along the Franklin Ridge Trail, and a 10 mile loop that includes a trip up the unofficial and rather steep Rock of Ages Trail. Because when your newspaper is going out of business in another week or two, you might as well swing for the fences.
  • Within a couple of years the Oregonian decided the Lowes were ok; here's a 1987 piece on the long-abandonded but newly reopened Bell Creek trail. Bell Creek is an Oneonta Creek tributary that begins on the upper reaches of Larch Mountain, and is remote enough -- and/or lucky enough -- to be home to a grove of genuine old growth trees.

Saturday, May 10, 2025

Harrison Falls

Next up we're visiting Harrison Falls, the main attraction in Oregon's Lindsey Creek State Park. Which is located next to Interstate 84 around eleven miles west of Hood River. If the park and the falls don't ring a bell, you're not alone. Your grandparents might remember them, though; they used to be highlights of this stretch of the old Columbia River Highway, but fell into obscurity after they were bypassed in 1964 when the old was transmogrified into part of I-84. Not only did the state neglect to put in an exit for the place, they also couldn't be bothered to put in a trail going there from the nearest exit at Starvation Creek, a mile east of there.

So after 1964 there was no official, legal way to visit the old park for just over half a century, until a new segment of the HCRH Trail was extended to Lindsey Creek from the east in 2016. It still isn't crowded, since it will always be a longer drive from Portland than a lot of the better-known classic Gorge destinations. Getting there from the Hood River side is still a bit inconvenient, as there isn't an exit at Starvation Creek, and you can either continue west on 84 to Wyeth and turn around there and get to Starvation Creek that way, or take the HCRH Trail from the Wyeth side (via another segment of the HCRH Trail that opened in 2019), or take the trail from Viento State Park instead. The last option adds another mile to the trip each direction, but it's a flat mile, so there's that.

Once you've made it to Lindsey Creek, there's nothing obvious there to suggest there's a big waterfall nearby. No signs, not even one with the name of the creek. Also no obvious trails, nothing. And you can't hear the falls, either, thanks to the noisy freeway right next to the HCRH Trail. So virtually everyone on the trail just passes on by and continues on their way with no idea what they're missing. But today is your lucky day, because I'm going to tell you the secret. It frankly isn't much of a secret: All you need to do is be on the left (south-facing) side of the creek, and follow the creek as it heads upstream. Once you're doing that you might notice an obvious boot path caused by other people going this way to see the waterfall over the past century and change. The creek bends to the left a bit, and once you go around that corner, bam, you're there. Seriously, that's all there is to it. I should point out that there was a downed tree in the way when I visited, and I didn't see any obvious way to get past it without going for a swim, but I have no complaints with the results I got. You might be able to get closer with some circus acrobatics, or you could chainsaw the log, or let the state know and wait for them to remember they own the place and send someone to officially chainsaw it, or just wait for the log to decay naturally. The last two options could take decades, and Legal is telling me to tell you not to even think about chainsawing anything ever, or do any acrobatics, and most of all not to combine the two, not even if you're a Cirque du Soleil cast member and you perform chainsaw acrobatics regularly in front of a live audience. Or, just in general, don't do anything that might give you an expensive case of "mental anguish".

This was my first time checking out the Lindsey Creek area, but I first heard about the place sometime around 1990. I was staring at a detailed map of the area for fun, as one does, and happened to notice it. USGS maps of the area have consistently marked a spot just labeled "Falls" on Lindsey Creek for decades, and the map I was looking at also showed the state park boundary, albeit labeled in a weird font that distinguished it from ordinary non-abandoned state parks. I knew enough of what had happened to the old highway to correctly guess that these areas further east had been closed off due to the freeway. I also owned a copy of the Don & Roberta Lowe guidebook 35 Hikes, Columbia River Gorge, which explained that the closest thing there was to an official way to explore Shellrock Mountain next door was to look for the wide spot on the eastbound shoulder along I-84, pull off and park there, and then hop a chain link fence. I even noticed other vehicles parked there now and then. But I just couldn't warm up to the idea of parking there and never tried it. In fact, I would go so far as to say I have a personal rule about not parking on -- or walking along -- the shoulder of a freeway unless maybe it's an emergency, and even then it's not Plan A. I know, I know, yet another controversial hot take out here on the internet, but I call 'em like I see 'em.

With the arrival of better maps (including the state LIDAR map that I keep going on about), and somewhat easier access to the area, it has come to light that the unnamed waterfall shown on old USGS maps is not the one we're visiting right now. This second waterfall goes by "Lindsey Creek Falls", and sources disagree on exactly how to get there. Zach Forsyth's waterfall book lists six more waterfalls even further upstream, although visiting them seems to involve hiking up another 2000 vertical feet and then canyoneering back down the creek. Or at least that's how he did it.

The next watershed to the west of Lindsey Creek is Summit Creek, and it's in a similar situation: The first waterfall (starting from the river and counting upstream) is known as "Camp Benson Falls", and the second goes by "Summit Creek Falls". It's maybe not the most logical system, and the names aren't actually official, but apparently the names all predate the 1964 closure so convincing everyone to listen to reason, for a change, and use Upper and Lower Lindsey Creek (and Summit Creek) Falls instead is probably not going to happen.

I had planned to check out Camp Benson Falls too on this visit, but when I got to where the creek was supposed to be it seemed to have dried up for the season so I didn't investigate further. Since then I've seen a claim somewhere that the creek will sometimes disappear into the rocks shortly after the falls at times of low flow, so it's supposedly worth checking out even if the creek looks dry where it meets the HCRH Trail. I have not personally witnessed this in action and am not claiming it's true, just relaying something I saw on the internet somewhere, as one does on the internet.

As you might imagine, 'Recreating the HCRH' has a lot of information to share about this area. The pages about the Summit Creek to Lindsey Creek and Lindsey Creek to Starvation Creek parts of the old road are good places to start. Also (via the Wayback Machine), Columbia River Images pages for Lindsey Creek and the other watersheds nearby. The Lindsey Creek page quotes Oregon Geographic Names as to where the name of the creek comes from:

"This stream east of Wyeth is reported to have been named for one John Lindsey, who took up a claim near the creek. Lindsey is said to have taken part in the battle at the Cascades in 1856, and was wounded therein. He was at one time a fireman on one of the river steamers. The Union Pacific Railroad had a station named Lindsey nearby in the 1930s."

I recall seeing additional factoids about this, first that his name might have been James instead of John, nobody really knows for sure, and secondly that he specifically took an arrow to the shoulder during an 1850s Indian rebellion. Another Recreating the HCRH page concerning the former bridge here cites Columbia River Images but just mentions the homesteading part. And really, being an early homesteader was a sufficient reason -- and by far the most common reason -- to get a geographic feature named after you in those days. (To any indignant descendants of pioneer homesteaders: I did not say easiest, just "most common". Regaling us with lengthy quotes from your ancestor's Dysentery Diaries is really not necessary.)

As for the train station, here's a circa-1920 map showing it, and a lower-resolution 1906 map not showing it. So that might be a useful data point. Either way it definitely predates 1930.

Some accounts go on to note that nothing else is known about Mr. Lindsey beyond the anecdotes relayed above. I did check the old newspaper archives on this point and can confirm he is seemingly not mentioned in the news at all during that rough time period or the following decades. In fact nothing interesting appears under any of the potential names until 1911, when we meet respected Portland chiropodist James Lindsey, who was arrested in 1911 for moonlighting as a mostly-respectable cocaine dealer. As in, respectable enough to get a really light sentence, due to being a family man and a pillar of the community and all, and also for an elderly female customer caught up the bust to not be charged with anything. But not quite respectable or well-connected enough to keep either of their names out of the newspaper. The moral of this story, of course, is to seek out and take good care of your regular customers at local media outlets, and make sure they know it. Because there's no way that last week was the last time they're going to need a little Colombian deadline powder, after all. Also it would be a better story if the creek was named after the later Lindsey, perhaps as thanks for his essential help with the hike up Mt. Defiance.

So, with those preliminaries out of the way, it's time for another timeline, that portion of a lot of posts here where it really helps to have a Multnomah County library card so you can follow along from home, if you like, or just to verify that the linked articles actually say what I'm saying they're saying. I tried to cast a wide net for material for this one: Lindsey Creek in the news, including any waterfalls on the creek, on the rare occasions they come up in the news. Or things connected to various businesses that tried to make a go of it here, and the railroad, which called this area "Lindsey" and would drop you off here if you asked nicely, and might even stop to pick you up if you asked nicely in advance and they noticed you in time. And a few bits about Mt. Defiance, roughly from the era when Lindsey Creek was the main way to get there. And some odds and ends about the life and times of Alfred S. Harrison, the falls' namesake.

  • We start at the summit of Mt. Defiance, July 26th 1905, where a local religious sect was encamped awaiting the apocalypse. It seems a mysterious stranger had come to Hood River recently, calling himself "Daniel the Second" or "Second Daniel", with a dire prediction. He claimed Mount Hood was about to erupt, sometime between July 27th and August 10th, and catastrophic floods would follow, drowning anyone who remained in the Hood River Valley. Also there would be a plague of yellow jackets and other insects, plus a day of complete darkness prior to the flood phase of the apocalypse. So he and his little band of followers were planning to ride it out on the highest point in the area that was not part of Mount Hood. Or maybe go back to town and burglarize everyone who had skipped town until the 10th just in case. The article doesn't say that, of course; that's just me coming up with alternate theories, as I tend to do. It did mention the locals had considered forming an angry mob to go throw rotten eggs at the encampment, but soon had second thoughts. Maybe once they realized how difficult the hike would be, even if they weren't lugging crates of rotten eggs. I couldn't find a followup article on how things had turned out after August 10th, or the further adventures of Second Daniel and his exciting new religion.
  • Speaking of Mt. Defiance, there's another Mt. Defiance in the Washington Cascades, north of I-90 and west of Snoqualmie Pass, a few hundred feet taller than the Gorge one. And both Northwest Defiances are most likely named for another, much shorter Mt. Defiance in upstate New York, near Fort Ticonderoga. So, the original wasn't the site of a legendary US victory, nor was it the most dramatic or imposing mountain for miles around. Honestly people probably just liked the name, regardless of it commemorating anything in particular.
  • December 22nd 1911, a notice on the front page of that day's Oregon Mist (the local paper in St. Helens) from several local businessmen including Alfred S. Harrison, informing readers that they had agreed not to be open on Sundays, henceforth.
  • May 1912: A horticulture expert of the day visited Hood River, toured a few local orchards, and proclaimed a bumper crop of apples was in order that year, perhaps six times larger than the previous year's harvest. I don't know how that year's harvest went in reality, but if he was wrong he could have done a lot more damage to Hood River than Second Daniel ever dreamed of (and stay tuned for more on this point).

    I only mention all of this because the article has a brief aside about Mt. Defiance. It seems that around this time it was claimed to be "the highest wooded point in the United States". Which is quite an expansive claim, and I would go out on a limb and guess it's a bunch of malarkey. And if it was true, that would make it the highest point you could hike to and still have trees blocking the view. Which is not a great claim to fame, if you really think about it.
  • August 1912: A.S. Harrison was named president of the Columbia County Progressive Party, better known as Teddy Roosevelt's Bull Moose Party, created to support his third-party run for president that year.
  • May 1914 article on the just-published report on the proposed Columbia River Highway route through Hood River County. The section of railroad from Lindsey Creek to Viento was said to prove that roadbuilding in this area of loose talus slopes was indeed possible.
  • June 1914. The Oregonian and the Journal both raised an eyebrow at the divorce case of Alfred S. and Jennie M. Harrison, which he had sued for, on the grounds of "cruelty". They had been married almost 19 years and had six children, and resolved the custody situation the reverse Brady Bunch way, splitting the family down the middle: Dad got the three oldest kids, while mom got the three youngest.

    Before this, Harrison's name appeared in the paper a few times in the "At the Hotels" section, a service newspapers used to provide if you wished to announce you were here on business for a few days. In 1900 he was listed as visiting from Kalama, WA, and in 1902 he was visiting from St. Paul, and from Scappoose in 1904, and living in Portland in 1908, and Vancouver in 1914. The 1908 and 1914 items showed the Harrisons traveling together, while a subsequent 1915 item had him visiting from St. Helens, solo.
  • January 1915, a bill was introduced in the state legislature to protect creeks along the new highway from being dammed for hydropower. "Lindsey Creek, forming Lindsey Falls" was among those listed for protection. That's all the description the article has, so it's anyone's guess which falls they had in mind.
  • Also in January 1915, an account of through-hiking the nearly complete highway, in the brief window before there were cars on the road. Which sounds like it would be an interesting story, but it was written in some of the most overwrought purple prose of the 1910s, which is really saying something. They spent a week wafting about the gorge and pestering every Italian stonemason they ran across, eventually coming to the Lindsey Creek area, where they had a "leisurely climb well up on the base" of the mountain. Which I suspect is Pre-Raphaelite for wimping out after the first mile or so.
  • June 1915: "5 Scale Mount Defiance", in which a Forest Service team summitted the mountain, but were forced by storms to descend 1000 feet before making camp for the night. Also they ran out of water at one point and had to descend further to find more. And they saw two deer, or possibly the same deer on two separate occasions. And if it sounds like the intrepid explorers and the paper were trying to put an unuly heroic spin on things, you would be correct. Elsewhere in the world, at that very moment, Ernest Shackleton was in the Falkland Islands, trying to arrange for a ship capable of rescuing his crewmen still stranded in Antarctica. So the heroic framing of this thrilling mountain adventure was just the spirit of the times. Nobody had the bad manners to point out that an entire doomsday cult had managed to camp at the summit a full decade earlier.
  • Also in June 1915, an A.S. Harrison & Co. ad in the St. Helens paper, promoting their "really good groceries" and calling the firm "St. Helens' Leading Merchants"
  • July 6th 1915 article previewing the grand opening of the new highway, with a motorcade of important dignitaries making their way to distant Hood River. After breakfast at Crown Point, they would sightsee their way eastward, having lunch at Lindsey Creek, then detouring around the unfinished tunnel at Mitchell Point, before exploring the Hood River area the rest of the day, with adventures further east planned for the following day. So, the place played a key bit part in a regionally important historical event, once.
  • August 1915. Harrison was in Portland for a big trade show for furniture and general retail goods, and is listed along with a long list of attendees. At this point he owned and operated a general store in St. Helens, and looking at the attendee list it seems like most attendees owned small town general stores around the state, and were in town looking for products to sell -- since the whole idea of a general store is that you'd have a little of everything for sale.
  • a 1916 announcement showed him marrying someone else.
  • May 1916, two men were arrested in Hood River for a very 2020s-sounding crime, stealing a few hundred pounds of copper telephone wire from a jobsite near Lindsey Creek. The men were spotted by telephone linesmen and then trailed by a city marshal through "the jungles along the Columbia" and back to an abandoned power plant near Hood River, where they were seen stealing brass fittings from the old generating equipment. The wire was recovered from a local secondhand dealer who had bought it no questions asked. And the internet says meth had already been discovered by then (in 1893, by a Japanese chemist, to be exact). So the thieves may have even had a 'modern' motive.
  • July 1916: "Mazamas To Ascend Peak That Is Overlooked By Most Climbers". The club had scheduled a hike to the top on their calendar for the year, and the author describes a couple of recent scouting trips to figure out a route, the first attempt being abandoned after the party ran out of water. The present-day trail did not yet exist, and they planned to start at Lindsey Creek as the most logical place, since the ridge to the east of the creek sort of segues into the mountain and the current trail mostly ascends there, though the trailhead is further east now.
  • An item by the same author over in the Journal, describing the scheduled hike and an easier one over to Mitchell Point scheduled for the same trip, for club members who didn't feel up to tackling the main expedition. He noted that everyone would get an early start after camping at Lindsey Falls.
  • August 1916: Harrison was busy co-founding the state grocery association and planning the group's first annual convention for the following month.
  • Said convention was held in Pendleton during the Pendleton Round-Up and it sounds like everyone had a grand old time, with guest speakers discussing topics like "The Bread Problem" and "The Progress of the Coffee Peddler", and a discussion about the trading stamp question.
  • But in December 1916, A.S. Harrison & Co. of St. Helens filed a dissolution notice with the state. Which might explain why the previous items were the last we hear about his involvement in the state grocers' association.
  • A Mazamas group did the Defiance climb again in 1917. This time around it was just presented as a regular club hike, although the announcement notes it would be a steep, difficult climb, gaining 5000 feet over the course of four miles or so. Oh, and after following an initial bit of existing trail the rest of the ascent would be a strenuous bushwhack through brush and timber.
  • August 1917, Harrison bought a shiny new Chalmers automobile, listed in a short-lived feature of the paper's motoring section naming everyone who bought a new car and what they bought. The Oregonian must have eventually realized this was not going to scale up very well once everyone was buying and selling cars.
  • The same month, placed an ad in the St. Helens Mist advertising "My Delivery Team, harness and 2 wagons for sale, cheap. Talk quick if you want a bargain."
  • Harrison seems to have owned an auto garage for a while, but it burned down in September 1917, also taking out an adjacent movie theater.
  • June 1918, Harrison led Columbia County in buying World War I bonds.
  • A month later, he joined with a few other local businessmen in starting a bank, the First National Bank of St. Helens. Here's a photo of a rare $5 bill issued by the bank in 1929, which is a thing private banks did back in those days. The bank was eventually absorbed by Portland's US Bank in 1933.
  • Winter 1919 saw a record freeze in the Gorge, with the Hood River area reaching -27° at one point. Which was enough to kill off many of the area's apple trees. So anyone who caught apple mania after that national fruit expert came to town in 1912 (a few bullet points ago) and had planted nothing but apples off to the horizon was in for a rough time, since apple trees generally take about 8 years before they start bearing fruit, and this freeze came along about a year short of that. So in an extraordinary bit of bad luck, people who got into the business at that point could have lost everything without ever making a single dollar or producing a single apple. A lot of people who had the resources to start over got into pears after that as they're a bit more tolerant of snowpocalypses.
  • In the early days of automobiles, license plates were reissued every year or couple of years, plate numbers starting over at 1 every time this happened. They were just digits, so personalized plates that spell things weren't possible yet, but you could request certain popular numbers and people would draw lots to determine who got to be that number for the next year or two. Harrison ended up with plate number 13 (November 14th 1919). The article doesn't say whether he requested the number or it was randomly assigned to him.
  • The next time we hear about him, five months later, he'd had another big career shift. Now he was in South Bend, WA, as president and co-founder of the newly chartered First Guaranty Bank. Which became First National Bank of South Bend two years later, after scoring a "national charter", which is a special document that allows you to use "First National" in your name. I mean, your bank's name. Maybe your individual name too, though I'm not sure that's ever been tested in court.
  • One of the privileges of being an officially chartered National Bank back then was that paper money entering circulation via your bank was printed with the name of your bank and the signatures of your bank's president and cashier. This page (at an Astoria coin dealer) has an image of a $20 bill issued through the National Bank of Commerce of Astoria. The author wanted more info about banknotes issued by the 7 other National Banks that existed within a 50 mile radius.
  • It turns out this was actually the second "First National" sort of bank to be based in South Bend. The original one had failed in 1895, and the legal saga around this failure dragged out for years afterward. most likely related to the Great Recession / mini-Depression of 1894. There were probably a fair number of Pacific County residents who had lost everything after depositing their money with the bank's older namesake. I'm no expert on the banking industry, but given that history, I would have simply picked a different name for the new bank, or founded it in a different town if I was really attached to "First National". For a bit of contemporary contrast, consider Cincinnati's Fifth Third Bank, created by the 1908 merger of the city's Third National Bank and Fifth National Bank. I wouldn't call those the most creative bank names I've ever encountered, but at least they weren't duplicates.
  • And in September 1920, fresh off of starting a bank, he started another bank -- Willapa Harbor Mutual Savings & Loan Association -- as a sort of subsidiary of First National of South Bend, operating out of the same offices. For most of the 20th Century, a Savings and Loan was yet another sort of bank with different rules and regulations around what it could and couldn't do. I suppose there must have been some sort of advantage at the time in having one of each kind of bank.
  • June 1923, the Harrisons were heading to England trying to sort out some legal issues around a "family estate of considerable value" they had been trying to gain title to since before WWI.
  • September 1923, Harrison had just returned from Europe and wanted everyone to know that the WWI cemetery at Belleau Wood was being cared for properly, though a fundraising campaign to purchase the land surrounding it was still ongoing. The last paragraph of the story adds context explaining his interest in the area:

    Mr. Harrison visited the territory over which his son, Robert, fought during the war and was particularly interested in the splendid manner in which the graves are being cared for in the various parts of France.


    Of course that was over a century ago, back when people were primitive and unsophisticated. Now it's 2024 and we live in the future and we just re-elected a bigly orange president who says the people under all those headstones were "losers" and "suckers" and you had better not disagree with him, or else.
  • December 1923, Harrison took out an eight-year lease on the Gale Hotel in Dallas, OR.; in August 1925 the hotel was reported sold by Emma V. Harrison of St. Helens, partly in exchange for the Campbell Hill Hotel in Portland at what's now NW 23rd and Burnside, and an ad the next month described her as the owner and manager.
  • May 1925, a Trails Club trip up Mt. Defiance, but starting from the Green Point area to the south. Which is said to be a much easier route in the present day, though it may have been harder a century ago. From the summit they would then descend the old-school hard way and end up at Lindsey Creek. The hike would be led by someone named "Harold Bonebrake". Which is possibly not a good omen, if you've ever had the pleasure of descending that trail.
  • March 1926: Harrison popped up again, now a Portland resident again, and petitioning the Oregon state engineer for a permit to take water from an unnamed stream in an unspecified location, for domestic purposes.
  • A typical ad for Harrison's Auto Camp in the June 5th 1927 Oregon Journal, listing the place's various modern amenities.
    FREE
    Picnic Grounds

    Harrison's Auto Camp, 56 miles east of Portland, Columbia Highway, at Lindsey Creek Falls. 2-room cottages, best of water, lights, fountain service, lunches, groceries. Phone, through Hood River. Write Wyeth, Or.
  • Harrison Auto Camp hosted a wedding in December 1927. So I imagine they must have had indoor facilities for hosting it, given the usual Gorge weather in December.
  • In fact a small item on January 7th 1928 has a couple of photos of the Harrison home at Lindsey Creek, which was flooded after the creek became dammed by snow and ice.
  • July 1928 article reprinting some facts from a Forest Service regional fact sheet. Basically an FAQ, decades before the term was coined, and compiled by several Forest Service employees, including Albert Wiesendanger, of Wiesendanger Falls fame. It included a list of heights of various Gorge waterfalls, ordered west to east, which informs us that that "Lindsey Creek Falls" is 104 feet high, while "First falls west of Starvation Creek" (which should be Cabin Creek Falls) comes in at 93 feet, and equally obscure Moffett Creek Falls at 74. A similar list printed in May 1986, on the publication of Gregory Plumb's waterfall guide, says the falls are 160 feet high, and located 1.25 miles up Lindsey Creek. Harrison Falls didn't quite make that list.
  • In July 1930, Harrison wrote a letter to the editor about the state's admittedly boring license plates. He suggests they'd be much more distinctive if they were cut into an animal shape instead of always being a boring rectangle. The state never took him up in the idea, but in 1970 Canada's Northwest Territories adopted new license plates shaped like polar bears.
  • Here's a 1931 Metsker map of the area (via Historic Map Works), showing where the Lindsey train platform/station/depot once was, which was east of the creek and Harrison's auto camp, located closer to Warren Creek than to Lindsey. Also the train always ran north of the highway through here, along the river. There probably wasn't much in the way of a train station here in the first place, but anything that once existed would almost certainly be under the westbound lanes of I-84 now.
  • April 9th 1933. Harrison found a weird gun from the pioneer era and was donating it to the Oregon Historical Society after refusing several offers by collectors. The article includes a long, skinny photo of the gun, and explains what makes it weird: "The most unusual feature of the weapon is the manner in which the hammer is placed under the barrel instead of on top and operates as a combination of hammer and trigger. The barrel is octagon shaped and is about 44 caliber."
  • In a followup item a few days later, we hear from a local gun collector who owned five guns of the same variety, and (it sounds like) talked a reporter's ears off about them while showing off his vast collection accumulated over four decades.
  • April 21st, 1933. A Mazamas hike announcement: They would meet at Lindsey Creek and climb Mt. Defiance from there. Which is how the Mt. Defiance Trail used to work back in those days. The ridge east of Lindsey Creek is the one the trail ascends, so it's the logical place for the trail to be, but the additional flat stroll over from Starvation Creek became necessary after the state abandoned the park when the highway became the Interstate. The OregonHikers page for the present-day trail notes that the old trail route is still sort of visible at the point where it intersects the current trail. So I guess if you're somehow bored with doing Mt. Defiance the normal way, the old-school route might still be doable. Though you'd still have to walk to the trailhead, so there's no real advantage to doing that now.
  • March 1939, the first time we hear about the Lindsey Inn, a "tourist camp" located here, was a brief notice that it had been sold to a Chicago buyer. Probably the same place as Harrison's, but without Harrison? This was followed by occasional real estate ads offering it for sale starting in 1942.
  • Hood River History Museum archives have a 1930s photo of the Lindsey Inn, which was located on the south side of the highway and immediately east of Lindsey Creek. That page says the state bought it in 1943 for future highway expansion, but down below there's an item about the state selling it in 1944. So either that deal didn't go through or the state had to repurchase it again sometime before 1964. Or maybe the state bought the inn for the land and resold the developed part that they didn't want? Because 1943 is also when the state park was created, and the area just isn't big enough for a bunch of unrelated land transactions.
  • September 1944. A roundup of State Highway Commission business included selling the Lindsey Inn at Lindsey Creek to the highest bidder for $320.
  • August 1948, the State Board on Geographic Names renamed the lake at Lindsey Creek's headwaters, from "Mud Lake" to "Bear Lake". Because someone cared enough to get this on the agenda. Not sure if they were trying to attract more visitors or to ward them away. The board also made the name "Lindsey Creek" officially official at this point, and renamed nearby Warren Creek and Warren Lake from the previous "Warm Creek" and "Warm Lake". Warren Creek is the creek that flows through Hole-in-the-Wall Falls, and I don't recall the mist from the falls being notably warm, at least.
  • December 1951, another Highway Commission roundup, awarding a $1.4M contract for widening the Lindsey Creek Bridge and for grading and paving 3 miles of highway in the vicinity.

    The bridge's Recreating the HCRH page says the original was demolished "circa 1950". Which is probably taken from the highway's National Register of Historic Places nomination form. But that form also says the McCord Creek bridge was demolished circa 1950, when it actually served as the eastbound side of I-84 until it was finally replaced for real in 1997. But if the 1951 work was a widening, not a demolition, and if the 1964 Interstate work through here started with the existing US 30 and added westbound lanes where the railroad used to be, it's possible the original bridge or some part of it still exists in there, just extended beyond all recognition.
  • June 1953, mentioned in an article about great picnic spots across the Oregon state park system. The article includes a long list of state parks as of 1953, with details about each of them. The one here is brief: "129 acres, 56 miles east of Portland on Columbia River. Wayside picnic area along the Columbia River on Lindsey Creek."
  • November 1956, a brief funeral notice for Emma V. Harrison. Says she was born in 1875 and had one child from a previous marriage. Could not find a notice for Alfred, but
  • June 1958, mentioned again as a nice picnic spot in an article mostly about Wallowa Lake, last of a four-part series about the fun of driving around Oregon with a travel trailer.
  • A July 1960 article about the newly introduced Oregon Sportsman's Guide includes the item about fishing Bear Lake (a small lake high up in the Lindsey Creek watershed) as an example of how thorough the guide is. Here's someone's Flickr photo of the cover of the 1960 edition, for anyone who wants to go wallow in cozy midcentury-ness for a while.
  • The state park got a quick mention in a 1963 history of the state park system, which overall is a fairly dry timeline of land transactions. It does explain the reason for the park briefly: "Preservation of the aesthetic value of that portion of the Columbia River Gorge prompted acquisition of the park land.", but doesn't mention anything about waterfalls, or trails that begin here, or anything like that. We're told that 38,628 people visited the park in 1962, but they didn't bother counting in 1963, and also didn't explain why they stopped counting visitors.
  • A 2008 OregonHikers thread mentions a long-lost Forest Service trail shown on an official 1963 trail map. It appeared to travel along the ridge between Lindsey Creek and Summit Creek, and -- seeing as the Mt. Defiance Trail was trail #413, and the Wyeth Trail -- the closest trail over on the far side of Shellrock Mountain -- was numbered #411, so naturally the one between them was numbered #412. Though that number has since been reused for a 1.5 mile trail in the Rainy Lake - Green Point area. The poster tracked down part of the old trail, which still existed thanks to being a forested ridgetop with very little understory. The thread calls it the "Lindsey Ridge Trail", but that name doesn't appear on the map that referenced it. One comment says it didn't appear on a 1930s map of the same area; it would be pretty sad if the 1963 trail was a recent addition given what happened the following year.
  • August 1964, "Columbia Gorge Scenery Lovers Aroused Over Planned Changes of Railroad Route" The railroad-straightening and freeway-widening projects went hand-in-hand. It was 1964, so by the time the public found out what was coming it was already a done deal, and there was nothing anyone could do about it. Same highway commissioners who gave us the Marquam Bridge, and attempted to bulldoze new freeways through NW and SE Portland in the name of Progress. There was nothing in the article saying the state was also about to cut off all access to several state parks along the route. They didn't announce that part; they just went ahead and did it.
  • An April 1965 Journal article covers the damage done to state parks in the Gorge by the floods of December 1964. We're told that a number of the damaged parks would just be abandoned in place as-is, since they were about to be cut off from all public access by the new freeway anyway. The article continues:
    Lindsey Creek State Park, 7½ miles west of Hood River, lies buried beneath stones. Fireplaces and outhouses are gone. So is the velvety moss-draped coolness.

    It will be years before anything can grow.
  • After that Lindsey Creek fell out of the news until an April 1970 column by Leverett Richards, the Oregonian's longtime hiking columnist, describing the unmarked and long-forgotten Mount Defiance Trail. The Mazamas were just beginning to work on reviving it, and the trailhead had not been relocated yet, so the instructions start with parking along the shoulder of the Interstate and hopping a fence, and then you were supposed to look for an unmarked trail starting behind an underground cable sign. Richards describes the trailhead site as "the former Lindsey Creek State Park".
  • May 1981 fishing article includes a list of potential fishing spots on the Columbia that you might have overlooked, via US Fish & Wildlife, and one of these is the pond formed by the railroad cutting across the bend in the river here. Going by the names I recognize, a lot of the sites on the list, maybe all of them, are lakes formed by the 1960s railroad-straightening project, which means the river-facing side of each lake is a steep gravel embankment with freight trains thundering by just steps away, while on the other side you're generally sandwiched in between the lake and I-84. So I guess it all depends on how much unpleasantness you're willing to tolerate in exchange for maybe catching a fish at some point.
  • By 1982 the Mt. Defiance Trail had been rerouted to the present-day arrangement, starting at Starvation Creek and following a stretch of the old highway for a while before heading uphill. Lindsey Creek gets a mention as scenery in this Roberta Lowe column about the trail. Here's her cheerful description of how hard the trail is:
    Some mountaineers quip that perhaps you need to climb Mount Hood in order to get in shape for Mount Defiance. Actually the latter isn’t that hard but how you feel during and after the hike is a good indicator of your physical condition.


    Lowe continues by noting that the summit would still be covered in snow in early June, and offers some advice on making it to the top anyway. Which might actually be an ideal time to go, assuming the nasty bitey black flies at the top haven't hatched yet or are dormant under the snow. And also assuming there's still snow at the top in June in the 2020s.
  • June 1984, A visit to Lindsey Creek was part of a big festival of organized Gorge hikes, organized by Friends of the Gorge. The hike description is a real puzzle: "Hike from Starvation Creek Park to Hole-in-the-Wall Falls and Lindsey Creek. Climb 1000 feet to hanging valley of Warren Creek for views and wildflowers. Then visit Perham Creek and viewpoint. Elevation gain 500 feet, four miles total." The first sentence is covered by the present-day HCRH Trail, and the Warren Creek part might be a spot early on along the Starvation Ridge Trail, while Perham Creek is a couple of miles further east, and a viewpoint there probably means doing part of the old Wygant Trail. Not sure how you fit all of that into a four mile hike, but ok.
  • After that, Lindsey Creek didn't appear in the news again until 2011, when a lost, injured hiker was rescued there, three days after tumbling off a cliff and breaking a leg. In a followup story she said she survived by eating berries and caterpillars (!) and tried a slug but found it inedible.