Showing posts with label waterfalls. Show all posts
Showing posts with label waterfalls. Show all posts

Monday, January 05, 2026

Upper McCord Creek Falls

The next installment in our ongoing waterfall thing takes us back to McCord Creek in the Columbia Gorge once again, where we're finally paying a visit to Upper McCord Creek Falls. The main event here is the much larger Elowah Falls, which I did a post about wayyyy back in 2008. As I recall -- this was like 18 years ago now and I may have some details wrong -- I had a rare and precious morning of no AM meetings (or at least none where my absence would be noticed), and headed to the Gorge for a short hike with a shiny new DSLR I was trying to get the hang of. (The linked post shows I came away with distinctly mixed results, I have to say in retrospect.) The traditional McCord Creek hiking route is sort of a Y-shaped twofer: After a short distance in from the trailhead, you hit a signed trail junction. The path to the left goes to Elowah Falls, and the other one to the right heads to Upper McCord Creek Falls. So you just pick one, follow it to the named waterfall, then backtrack to the junction and do the other. So that was the plan, but I got busy fiddling around with the new camera at Elowah Falls and ran out of time for the "B side" of the hike that day. As I recall, I had to get back to the office in order to leverage some proactive synergies outside the box on a go-forward basis, thereby placing all the wood behind the arrow, and my presence was essential for this one. I did jot down a TODO item to go back and take a few photos of the upper falls for the sake of completeness, but doing that by itself just never seemed compelling enough to become a top priority.

I did swing by in mid-2017 to take some bridge photos for a different project, but shortly after that the Eagle Creek Fire put the whole area off limits for several years. These photos are from May 2021, which IIRC was just days or a week or two after the area finally reopened, coinciding with the fun and all-too-brief "Mission Accomplished" phase of the not-really-post-pandemic era.

Before we get into the big rambling historical timeline section, a quick comment about the name situation. The lower falls are "Elowah Falls", while the upper falls go by "Upper McCord Creek Falls", and it's weird and inconsistent and I don't like it, and we'll cover how it got that way down in the timeline part. So I thought I'd check the shiny new and improved USGS place name GIS server to see what it said about the upper falls and exactly who came up with this silly naming scheme. And I saw... absolutely nothing. There is no database entry for the falls under any name, which means the dumb current naming scheme is still fixable. So I'm hereby launching a national, no, global but mostly national lobbying campaign to call them "Upper Elowah Falls" instead. I'm going to conduct this campaign in my usual way, by explaining how things ought to be once or twice on the Internet and then waiting patiently for public opinion to come around, which I've noticed can sometimes take quite a while. In the meantime, the two names are equally legal, so don't be surprised if you see both names. "Upper McCord" because old newspaper articles tend to use it, and it (hopefully) keeps the search engines happy, and "Upper Elowah" because it's just better.


Timeline

  • January 1910 article on the proposed new highway goes into great detail on the proposed route, including how the route at "Kelly Creek" would avoid conflicting with the railroad. A March 1915 construction update used the same name. A May 1915 update also used "Kelly Creek" while noting "Pierce Creek" was an alternate name for the same place.

  • A January 1915 list of scenic crown jewels of the area, mentions "Pierce Creek Falls", a few months out from the Big Renaming

  • The invented name "Elowah Falls" was unveiled in April 1915 along with a number of other fanciful quasi-sorta-Indian place names throughout the Gorge. The Mazamas committee that did this made it very clear that they were only renaming the lowest and most accessible waterfall on any given creek, which resulted in our destination today being named "Upper McCord" instead of "Upper Elowah", and the creek somehow not being "Elowah Creek". Turns out they made "McCord Creek" official at the same time Elowah was introduced, naming the creek after the early pioneer who built the first fishwheel on the Columbia right here at the mouth of the creek, beginning the era of modern industrial-scale overfishing. So that's not entirely great, if you ask me.

  • W.R. McCord's 1923 obit -- so yeah, he was still around when they named the creek after him, which is also not great -- states he was a carpenter by trade and came to Oregon by wagon in 1850, where he helped build the first steamboat on the Willamette that same year, and ended up building fishwheels since that was a big growth industry at the time. Eventually he invented the snailshell fishwheel, which was the proverbial better mousetrap except for salmon, the world beat a path to his door, he beat a patent troll in court and lived happily ever after, basically.

  • As an aside, regarding fishwheels: This device is incredibly simple and far too effective. It's just a waterwheel that spins in the current like any other, but with nets or baskets instead of regular flat paddles. You would search around and find a spot where salmon tend to congregate on their migration upstream, and build your fishwheel there. As it spins in the current, any fish that happen to congregate in the wrong spot are simply scooped out of the river and transported away for, er, processing. Any fish that notices something might be amiss here and swims off to congregate somewhere else is home free, and yet this is all it took to drive most salmon species to near-extinction within a few decades. This leads us to the inescapable conclusion that salmon are literally dumb as rocks, even dumber than the average fish in the sea, and will just sit there watching placidly and doing nothing for self-preservation as the other salmon around them are scooped up by the barrel-ful. Frankly, between salmon and the local smelt industry, a lot of local fortunes in the Northwest were built by preying on perhaps the two biggest imbeciles in the ocean. Delicious imbeciles, but still. And then, just adding insult to injury, eating them has been promoted as a "brain food" on and off for decades.

  • OregonHikers thread with an old photo of McCord Creek circa 1915, showing the falls, and the old pipeline that ran along where the upper trail is now. The blog side of Curious Gorge has some photos of the old Myron Kelly pulp mill here. A caption explains that the mill consumed fast-growing cottonwood trees, not Douglas fir. The main thing for right now is that you can see that the CCC workers had a head start on making a trail here.

  • Sources differ on exactly what sort of business Kelly was engaged in. Some say he had a fish processing business, others say it was a pulp mill, but either way it needed a steady water supply, and somehow just taking water out of the creek as it flowed past his business wasn't sufficient. And beyond the piping, apparently he even dug a canal connecting McCord Creek with Moffett Creek, one watershed to the east (right about here, I think), presumably to divert more water into McCord Creek than would otherwise be there, or maybe it worked the other way around in case the creek was at flood stage, to protect his pipes and infrastructure downstream. I dunno, none of this makes a lot of sense to me. But then, I've never claimed to be that kind of engineer, so who knows. And I always try to remember, just because somebody built something doesn't mean it was a good idea or that it was built properly and worked as designed.

  • Some of this may be confused with Frank Warren's Warren Packing Company cannery nearby in Warrendale. At its peak in the early 1880s, the company operated as many as 14 fishwheels at various locations along the Columbia, about a third of the total. And the Columbia was the global epicenter of the canned fish industry at the time, which meant Warren and his company were kind of a big deal for a while. The hamlet of Warrendale (or what's left of it now) is named after him, and for a time the business was profitable enough to support the Warrens in a life of luxury, such that after a long trip to Europe they set out for home aboard the shiny new RMS Titanic. As the story goes, after getting his family into a lifeboat, Frank Warren stayed behind helping others and became the only Oregon resident known to have died in that disaster. Salmon stocks had been in decline since the early 1880s, and the Warren company shut down not long after the sinking. And that's the point when Rod Serling cuts in and says something about the endless mysteries of the deep, and cosmic balances, and accounts being settled one way or another.

  • The fishing and timber industries along the Columbia basically ran themselves out of business in the 1910s, by catching all the fish and cutting all the trees as fast as they could. After all of that cratered, obviously it was time to build a scenic highway and invite the world to come experience the pristine natural wonders. Usually a pivot like this takes a generation or two of waiting for the oldtimers to die off, but here the change happened within a couple of years. For example here are two articles from January 1916 explaining that an additional $12,855 would be needed in order to build out the initial, rather ambitious trail plan for the Gorge, and backers hoped the feds could be persuaded to chip in toward that number. Just $100 would be earmarked for the proposed McCord Creek Trail, as this was one of the less technical proposals at the time.

  • Note that the original McCord Creek Trail was quite different from the present-day trail. It began right at the old McCord Creek bridge, back before it was incorporated into I-84 (and eventually replaced), and simply followed the creek 1/4 mile upstream until it got to the lower falls, and ended there.

  • A September 1917 guide to the Forest Service portion of the Gorge reads like the trail had been built and was now open. It goes on to say "The trail is being built so that you can go back of the falls and look through the ever-moving, transparent curtain of water", which is a bit surprising since the present-day trail doesn't do this. I don't think there's even a side trail that does this. Maybe they never got around to building that part, or maybe it was closed at some point due to rockfall hazards.

  • August 1919, early Trails Club group hike to the McCord Creek area, described as one of the wildest and most beautiful areas along the new Columbia River Highway. The invite mentions requiring hobnail shoes, and says they'd be exploring around the rock rim of Elowah Falls, as today's trail didn't exist yet. Getting there from Portland was another story, though: Would-be explorers were told to catch the early O.W.R.&N. train east from Portland and get off at the Warrendale station a short distance from McCord Creek.

  • An April 1926 hike blurb stating that the Trails Club would be paying another visit to the upper falls. Which, again, sounded like a serious challenge:

    Trails Club To Climb. -- A hike along McCord creek to the upper falls, involving some steep climbing, will be made by the Trails club Sunday. The party will leave the Park and Yamhill stage terminal at 8:30 and hike seven miles from Warrendale. Members of the party will wear mountain climbing outfits, including hob-naled boots and gloves for rope work. The hike will be led by Fred Steeble.

    The reason for all the gear is that the present-day trail inset into a sheer cliff did not exist yet, and would be built as a Depression-era CCC project. The place wasn't entirely pristine; as part of local logging operations, there was a water pipeline running along where the trail is now, built into a relatively soft rock layer that was easier to work with. Which gave someone the idea that a trail could run through the same spot. I have no idea what route this intrepid party might have taken in lieu of the current path.


  • The 1927 Metsker map of the area indicates the land around the falls was still private property at this point, labeled as "Cont. Com. Bk.". Maybe that's short for "Continental Community Bank", or maybe it's "Commercial" instead of "Community"; the name doesn't ring a bell either way. but I don't claim to have an encyclopedic knowledge of historical local banks, and there isn't a whole lot of continuity between pre-1929 banks and present-day banks.

  • September 1930: upcoming Mazamas hike noted they would be exploring the shiny new Nesmith Point Trail. Today it branches off the Elowah Falls trail before it encounters the main trail junction. But I'm not sure what the route was like originally; I haven't found a trail map from back then to verify this, but it's possible that today's trailhead only went to Nesmith Point at that point, and got repurposed after the original McCord Creek trailhead was lost to freeway construction. Or it may have not been the present-day trailhead, exactly, but there was a separate trailhead that just went to Nesmith Point.

  • A May 1936 story belatedly telling readers all about the shiny new McCord Creek Trail extension to the upper falls, built the previous year by CCC work crews. Apparently this original trail was a bit different from today's version; the old trailhead was right at the old highway's McCord Creek Bridge, and hikers just followed the creek upstream to the falls, and continued on to today's Upper McCord side trail to get to the top. Or that's what I gather from the description, as no map is provided. The trailhead also featured a large log of petrified wood that had been uncovered by construction at some point. This log had recently been fenced off to discourage souvenir hunters, and I gather it was later dynamited as part of I-84 construction by aggressively unsentimental highway engineers. The paper had already written about people trying out the new trail for a while; they must have realized they had never actually done a grand opening announcement for the thing.

  • 1937 photo of the now-sorta-protected petrified tree mentioned earlier.

  • June 1936 brought a deeply weird bit of amateur archeology by the Oregon Journal's editorial board, seemingly not their first excursion into the topic. Here it is in full, presented in Comic Sans for effect:

    By Extinct Races

    The world over, and in all time, men have been killers. The cave men, in jungle days, were no exceptions -- the story of mankind has been war, war, war, even down to the late conquest of Ethiopia.

    Rock fortifications near Mosier, in the Columbia Gorge and down the river from The Dalles, were recently described on this page. They are believed by geologists to have been the work of a race of pigmies in which the men were only 4 feet in stature and to have existed about the time of the Mayans.

    Similar formations of piled rock are found near the summit of Wind Mountain, east of Carson, on the North Bank highway. The formations consist of several groups of rock terraces or breastworks in rows, one above another, at irregular intervals on the south and east slopes of the mountain. That the rockpiles were defense works of an extinct race seems certain, as behind the artificially built walls are trenches. Inquiry in the long ago of Indians in the district brought out no information as to when or by whom the fortifications were built. Back in 1908 there was a clearly defined trail up the mountainside on the north slope, but in 1926, when examination was made, it was difficult to locate the trail.

    Another curious formation that is clearly the work of man is a source of interesting speculation. It is on the left side of the cliff, at the end of the ravine leading to McCord Creek Falls, on the upper Columbia River Highway. It consists of a roughly rounded mound about two feet high and about three feet in diameter. It was the top of a small bluff, the sides of which were cut away to form a narrow, flat platform surrounding it. At a lower level is a slightly wider platform, similarly formed. It, too, is unmistakably the work of man, and, being in full view of the falls, one can easily imagine impressive Indian or other ceremonials of savages being performed to the beat of the tom-tom and the "tum-tum" of the falling waters.

    These mystic formations are the only written story of a past age and lost races. Geology should unravel them, and their meaning be interpreted to people in language they can understand. So translated and explained, the rock piles and other formations of the long, long, ago, converted into carefully kept parks in The Dalles area, would become a lure to attract many a sightseer.

    Ok, so the piled rock structures on Wind Mountain are still generally seen as artificial, but the fortification theory went out of vogue decades ago. People eventually realized that mountaintop fortifications beyond a watchtower don't make sense unless you also have cannons and gunpowder so you can actually do something about the invaders besides just watch helplessly from above. I'll just note this theory was most popular in the decades right after World War I, when anything that might look a bit like a trench transported people back to the horrors of Flanders fields.

    A present-day popular theory says something about young people going on vision quests and finding their spirit animals. But that really sounds like something New Agey white people would have dreamed up in the 70s, or something they'd have Chakotay go on about on Star Trek: Voyager in his role as a "rainforest Indian" of no particular tribe. (A situation Paramount got into thanks to inadvertently hiring a fake-Indian consultant to help define the character and his backstory.)

    As for those elaborate ceremonial platforms at McCord Creek, I don't recall seeing any such thing anywhere near the upper or lower falls. I suppose if you're in a mindset to expect ancient ruins everywhere, you're going to see them everywhere, even if nobody else does. Of course we're a much more rational and advanced society now in 2025, and you don't just go around blaming unexplained maybe-structures on mysterious extinct people of a lost age. No, these days if you think your local present-day native people could not have pulled off a given construction project centuries ago, you can just claim they had help from space aliens and leave it at that, because nobody can really prove they didn't.


  • Upcoming Pathfinders hike in July 1940, one of the few announced group hikes after the initial burst of enthusiasm.

  • A very detailed article in the May 26th, 1940 Oregon Journal about the classic Mt. Hood - Columbia Gorge scenic loop drive. This was about the height of the route's scenic-ness, before highway engineers began bypassing the road's many attractions in the name of speed and efficiency and capital-P Progress. Naturally Elowah Falls gets a mention, though sharing the limelight with the petrified tree.

  • 1942 letter to the editor, in regard to wartime scrap metal drives and the proposed scrapping of the old Battleship Oregon, pointing out there was plenty of rusty old metal just lying around the McCord Creek area and maybe we should gather it first before chopping up any major historical artifacts.

  • The 1944 Metsker map shows the land was now (unsurprisingly) owned by "State of Oregon", and it even shows more or less where the falls are. It also highlights the first waterfall over on Moffett Creek, and shows that the old YWCA campground on the 1927 map was gone by 1944.

  • The upper falls trail was the scene of a harrowing rescue in May 1945: A couple and a friend of theirs were descending the trail and stopped to admire the view. The friend leaned against the pipe railing along this stretch of trail... and the railing promptly gave way, depositing him on a small just-less-than-vertical spot 50-60' below the trail, perched a few inches above the remaining 750' or so drop down to McCord Creek. The couple quickly took their clothes off to construct a makeshift rope. It was a few feet too short, so the woman tried lowering her husband on the rope to reach the guy. Still too short. Then they searched around and found a ~20' stretch of wire in the bushes, lowered the husband again, and had him stretch the wire to the rapidly-tiring friend. That was finally enough length, and they gingerly made their way back up to the trail. The article concludes:
    Secor [the friend] was given first aid at the Eagle Creek ranger station. The rope could not be photographed Tuesday night. Mr. and Mrs. Short had put it back on.

    If I had to pick one object to have on hand for an outdoor emergency, I'd still probably choose a mobile phone with bars, but if that isn't available it's hard to go wrong with some quality 1940s tailoring, I guess. Also, do NOT lean your weight on that pipe, or really any pipe that you didn't personally install.

    The other thing that occurs to me -- and I have no idea how to turn this into useful general-purpose advice -- is that if enough people had done like that 1942 letter proposed, and scoured the McCord Creek area for scrap metal, there might not have been a random 20' length of wire just lying in a bush nearby, and the whole rescue might have come up short in that case. And there's just no way people in 1942 could have known or planned ahead for any of this. It's just one of those spooky details, I guess.


  • July 1952 article reminding readers that taking kids out to the Gorge is a great summer activity. The described route sounds the same as it was after 1935, but that would change in the next few years as the road was transformed piece by piece into a modern interstate freeway.

  • In 1959, Elowah Falls was obscure enough to figure in an Oregon geography quiz in Dick Fagan's long-running "Mill Ends" column. You know, the column the tiny park with the leprechauns is named for.

  • 1960: Narrow escape for a tugboat crewman just off the mouth of McCord Creek when the boat capsized while it and two other tugs were repositioning a dredging ship. Not really related to anything else in the story, but the newspapers were pretty light on Elowah Falls news in the 1950s and 1960s. In other news on the same page, a Troutdale foundryman was declared the victor of the town's annual smelt-eating contest, after gobbling 122(!) of the greasy little fish during the two-hour contest.


    And before you get the idea that 1960 was a sweet and innocent time in Oregon, the main story on the page concerned the state Eugenics Commission, which had just refused an unnamed woman's request to have her tubes tied due to not wanting any more children, and being unable to afford the procedure. They turned her down, stating they only acted to "protect society from those who are mentally ill or defective", and by law had no official interest in people's economic conditions. The article notes that a month earlier, Governor Hatfield had angrily denied accusations that he favored sterilizing "unwed mothers". The article tentatively suggests that just maybe it might be a good idea in some cases, strictly on a voluntary basis, given the high cost to society of "illegitimate children". And today, over six decades later, one of the two major political parties in the US is still trying to drag us back to those days. But I'm digressing, and you didn't come here to read about politics, and the more I write about politics the more stressed and unhappy it makes me.


  • Mentioned in a 1964 article on driving the Gorge-Mt. Hood loop. It calls the falls "McCord Creek Falls", which was common for a while. Around the same time people started using "Tanner Creek Falls" instead of "Wahclella Falls", and "Moffett Falls" or "Moffett Creek Falls" instead of "Wahe Falls", and in general the use of romanticized Indian and pseudo-Indian place names assigned by white people just sort of fell out of favor for a while, but somehow not in a way that was of any benefit to native people.

  • March 1975 article is a tale about what exploring the Gorge was like before the internet. The author glimpsed Elowah Falls from the freeway a few times, and finally she and her husband went looking for it, finally running across the modest trailhead at Yeon State Park. The signage at the time mostly talked about Beacon Rock across the river, and the doings of Lewis and Clark and the Oregon Trail pioneers, and not so much about the trails that started here or where they went, so the couple went into the trip not knowing what to expect. Sounds like they were rather bowled over by the experience. Which is about what it was like when I went there the first time, circa 1990.

  • A letter to the editor in response reminds everyone that the lower falls are called "Elowah Falls", not "McCord Creek Falls", despite what you might think going by what the other falls are called. It would have been so easy to avoid this naming mess almost exactly 60 years earlier, but no....

  • A July 1977 article describes the trail without all the pre-internet research difficulties, and grumbles about people picking all the wildflowers (which is kind of an anachronism too). Like the 1975 article, it notes that the trail to Elowah Falls ended at the creek at that time. At one point it mentions the iron railing on the way to the upper falls, which (she says) is there for you to lean against. Please recall the 1945 incident I mentioned earlier and note that this railing is now close to 90 years old at this point and substantial parts of it may be original, and any extended warranties the state may have bought on it have long since expired, and it just flat-out looks sketchy, and even if it's in perfect condition, recall that the average hikers of 1935 (and, frankly, 1977) were, um, a bit more svelte than their present-day counterparts. I am not pointing fingers at you, personally, of course, or at myself for that matter; I'm just saying that the combined weight of either of us, or both of us, along with that one mysterious stranger up ahead who's also leaning on the same pipe while gobbling donuts from a box, taken as a whole, may verge on exceeding certain engineering tolerances.

  • The upper falls figured in several Roberta Lowe columns in the Oregon Journal over 1981-82. The paper was in the throes of going out of business just then, which might have emboldened her in adding some of the more advanced details in her hike ideas.

  • April 1981 column inserts the Elowah Falls trail and Upper McCord side trip into a longer route covering a chunk of the shiny new Trail 400. Starting at the McLoughlin State Park trailhead, heading east thru the McCord Creek area and then continuing on to Tanner Creek and our waiting car shuttle. The whole stretch west of McCord Creek was abandoned after the 1996 floods so this exact route is not currently possible. I've heard that this stretch of trail was not really very scenic anyway. Further east, she casually mentions that a certain unmarked side trail is the start of the unmaintained, highly unofficial, and highly scenic Munra Point Trail

  • Other column came in June 1982, and really swings for the fences with another unusual route. As in, first you hike the nice trail for normies that gets you to the upper falls. Then you cross the creek and start an uphill scramble/bushwhack for about a mile, gaining 1100 vertical feet in the process, while your boring friends chill at the picnic table that used to exist down at the upper falls. If you do it correctly you end up at little-visited Wauneka Point, home to panoramic views and a large collection of native rockworks, similar to those found in a few other places around the Gorge. The official Field Guide route is longer and easier and generally follows established trails (albeit for small values of "established" in some cases), and that page mentions the existence of the Lowe route and points at at least one trip report that followed it. But they say it's only suitable for the very experienced hikers of the present day. But that's the route that was once published in a family newspaper. One may feel more empowered to do this when a.) you're an established journalist writing for an established newspaper, and b.) said newspaper is on the brink of going out of business in a few months so it's not like there's any money in suing you if somebody gets hurt. At one point she even suggested leaning out over the railing on the upper falls trail to get a better view.

    In passing, the article points out where to find the equally unofficial Nesmith Ridge Trail, which goes the same place as the official Nesmith Point Trail, but starts at the upper falls and is generally considered a better and more scenic route. She had actually covered this route more extensively a month earlier, framing it as the next logical step after reviving a number of other vintage trails from the golden days of yore. I missed this article at first because she -- correctly -- called the falls "Upper Elowah Falls".

    You'll also see boot paths here that just sort of follow McCord Creek further upstream. As far as anybody knows there's nothing interesting to see up that way. No waterfalls on LIDAR, no viewpoints, nothing historical or archeological to look for, just a little mountain stream burbling along thru the forest.

  • A third Lowe column from the same time period bypasses both waterfalls, and instead informs us that the long-abandoned Moffett Creek Trail had just been repaired and reopened, and she was ready with a guide to this rustic backcountry trail. The name suggests it's a trail up along Moffett Creek, something that was proposed back in the mid-1910s but never built due to the high estimated cost of labor and dynamite. Instead, it branches off the nearly-as-remote Tanner Creek trail (which starts near the far end of Tanner Creek Road / Forest Road 777) and switchbacks up and down to cross the upper reaches of the Tanner, Moffett, and McCord Creek watersheds, passing through some Bull Run infrastructure just outside the closure boundary along the way. I have never even cast eyes on this trail, much less hiked any distance on it. Anyway, Lowe cheerfully explains the sights along the way and offers tips on safely fording the various creeks you'll encounter, getting you as far as the top of the Nesmith Point Trail, the return leg for your car shuttle loop. The description of that last part is pretty much a handwave; maybe it was edited for length, or she just assumed everyone knows that part already. Either way, after completing the hike as described you'd still need to drive up sketchy Road 777 again to pick up your other car. Except that it's been gated and closed to the general public since the late 90s, due to being a Forest Service road that was too easily accessed by people who don't know what Forest Service roads are like.

    I am slightly tempted to feed these and other Lowe articles into the latest GPT-style AI and have it generate an endlessly cheerful practical guide to taking the One Ring to Mordor, explaining how the ring may chafe a bit and become heavier as Mordor approaches, but the usual first aid for blisters ought to do the trick. But I digress again.


  • A 1986 list of tallest waterfalls in Oregon, sorted by height, accompanying an article on waterfall geology. This was back when the local newspaper of record had a regular geology columnist, which they did for a number of years after the 1980 eruption of Mt. St. Helens.

  • January 1994: Terry Richard column naming the Elowah + Upper McCord twofer the Hike of the Week.

  • Sometime after that, the bike-centric HCRH State Trail project reached McCord Creek, and the state added a paved trail between the existing Yeon trailhead and Cascade Locks. I don't recall whether it all opened at once or in phases, but it was the first new trail option here since the 400. The HCRH trail and the 400 intersect repeatedly on their sorta-parallel paths through the Gorge, creating new ways to turn out-n-back hikes into loops. The HCRH trail is nobody's idea of a pristine wilderness experience, and to me the main reason you might want to use it would be to shorten the return leg, in case a storm system moves in or that knee you hurt back in 2013 starts twinging again, or you're being pursued by Mafia goons from out of town who don't know there's a back way back to your car now.

  • April 2016 article suggests spending Spring Break week visiting as many Gorge waterfalls as possible. There was a time not so long ago when you could do this and come away thinking you'd done all the major attractions. But now you'll come to realize you've barely scratched the surface of what's out there. The upper and lower falls get a shout out because they're an easy twofer if you're going for sheer numbers.

  • Of course the Eagle Creek Fire happened the very next summer, and the area was closed for several years afterward. During that time the only glimpses we got of the area were some aerial photos taken by the state for damage assessment. A Wy'east Blog post on the Gorge after the 2017 fire includes a bunch of these photos and tries to make sense of what had changed.

  • A May 2019 article similar to the 2016 "see every waterfall" challenge, but not limited to the Gorge this time for obvious reasons.

  • January 2021 OregonHikers forum post about a recent visit, by someone who had volunteered with the post-fire restoration work. He explains the restoration work included repairing a lot of long-neglected CCC stonework, including a long-closed viewpoint that gives a higher-elevation view of the lower falls.

Sunday, December 21, 2025

Seventeen Mile Falls

Since we're in atmospheric river season again, I thought I'd post a few photos of some seasonal waterfalls that are really only visible (or at least visible and worth seeing) this time of year. In the post just before this one, we had a look at "Chicken & Dumplings Falls", nicknamed (by me) after the defunct landmark restaurant across the street. This time around we're a few miles further along the old Columbia River Highway, right around HCRH Milepost 17, but across the road and uphill from there. Again, you can catch a brief glimpse of it while driving by, and strictly speaking you aren't supposed to park along the road here -- although I think the main reason for that is to push you to use the paid parking lot at Dabney State Park right next door. Actually if you look at a map the land containing the waterfall is also part of the park, so if -- hypothetically -- you wanted to get a closer look at it, you at least wouldn't be trespassing if you tried it. It's just that I don't see any trails over there, official or otherwise, or any abandoned roads or railroad grades or whatever, and the whole hillside facing the main section of the park seems to be choked with invasive ivy and blackberry vines, so bushwhacking anywhere near it looks like it'll be a huge hassle.

Still, if we pick reasonable top and base points on the state LIDAR map and subtract one from the other, this one comes to about 165' high counting the two tiers together. So it looks fairly impressive at the times when it's actually running. If we had wetter summers around here, we would probably have an official maintained trail to this one, and Instagram would be full of influencers doing yoga poses in front of it, and it would have a real, official, legal name instead of me just making up names on the fly as needed. But we don't have that kind of climate, and highlighting waterfalls that only run outside of prime tourist season is just going to make visitors unhappy, leading to lots of one star Yelp reviews, and angry letters to the editor demanding that somebody do something about this outrage ASAP, and they probably figured it's just not worth the trouble.

Chicken & Dumplings Falls

It's atmospheric river time again in the Pacific Northwest, and (among other things) that means the local seasonal waterfalls are back in business. So it seems like a good time to take a look at one of them, since right now you can read this post and then rush out and go see it for yourself, which is usually not the case. This one is across the street from the Tad's Chicken & Dumplings restaurant, behind and uphill from the restaurant's overflow parking lot. You can catch a brief glimpse of it from the road if you know where to look. Right now there's usually room to park in front of the restaurant if you want to stop and take some photos, since the building is currently vacant and for sale. (The Portland Mercury called it a a classic must-stop back in 2020, but I don't think it ever reopened after the long pandemic closure.) And in the unlikely event someone asks what you're up to, you're an early-stage potential investor trying to visualize the possibilities here before moving forward. And who knows, maybe you'll get a closer look at the building and suddenly be inspired to go into the restaurant business.

Note that the forest behind the parking lot belongs to someone else and is not for sale, and it's signed as if they're used to interlopers trying to visit their waterfall and are sick and tired of it, so this one is strictly look from afar but don't touch.

Looking at it on the state LIDAR map, and picking out points for the top here and the base here, that gives us a height of 128 feet. Which seems reasonable, I think, and overall I think this would be a scenic highlight of the gorge if only it ran more often. Though that would only be possible if it rained more, and/or Chamberlain Hill (the mini-volcano that's responsible for the higher elevations around here) was a bit taller. And the only way I know of for a volcano to get taller is by erupting, so I'm not sure it would be worth all the extra trouble.

Saturday, December 13, 2025

Upper Rock Creek Falls

For our next adventure, we're paying a visit to Skamania County's amazing Upper Rock Creek Falls, right on the outskirts of Stevenson, Washington. I am not exaggerating when I tell you this is one of the scenic highlights of the entire Gorge, and yet the big guidebooks and tourist info sites all seem to ignore it, local tourism folks included. I think the main reason for this is that up until quite recently the falls here were surrounded by private property and there was no way to even get a glimpse of them without trespassing. After the interwebs came along, word got out about the falls to a very limited degree, along with a set of highly sketchy instructions on how to get there. My IG post about the falls described the problems with this route:

Maybe 10-15 years ago the internet briefly discovered the place, via a route on the other side of the creek that involved sneaking through a cemetery, avoiding angry locals, and then scrambling down a steep landslide-prone 100' bluff, and then climbing back up, and being sneaky again, and hoping your car wasn't towed or torched in the meantime. It slowly dawned on people that no part of this route was in any way public property, at which point a lot of local outdoor-adjacent websites marked it as off-limits and removed any info on how to get there, and the place was effectively memory-holed.

We are not following those instructions today. It turns out that for the entire time this was going on, there was another route on the other side of the creek that was apparently known to locals and nobody else. This route was also private land up until quite recently, but apparently passing through was tolerated, maybe in exchange for not telling outsiders about the place, but that last bit is just me speculating. Then in 2022, Skamania County quietly bought close to 11 acres (in three tax lots ) near the falls so now it's public land the whole way to the falls. Those links go to the Skamania County Assessor pages for these properties, for any skeptics out there who think it's still private; you can go check for yourself and do not need to trust me about this.

So with that preamble, the correct way to visit the falls is as follows: Go to the intersection of Ryan-Allen Road and Aalvik Road, here. There's a wide bit of shoulder just west of the intersection, with room for maybe 3-4 cars, and you can park there. There's a red fire hydrant right at the intersection, and you'll see an unsigned but obvious gravel trail starting to the left of the hydrant. Take this trail. After a while you'll go thru a powerline corridor with another trail thru it. Going straight takes you to the Upper Falls, while heading off to the left takes you toward the Lower Falls, and I'll talk about the Lower Falls a bit later, although I didn't visit them on this trip and have no photos to share. Note that there are a couple of sections of stairs to watch out for, and right at the end there's a steep bank to scramble down. Just something to keep in mind, especially if you're on a bike, or you have small children or maybe over-excitable dogs in tow.

The one and only historical item I've found about the place is a June 1927 tourism ad by local Skamania County boosters with a photo of the falls, promoting the county as the Vacationists' Paradise, now easily accessible via the shiny new Bridge of the Gods. Full of trout streams, hiking trails, and hot springs resorts.

Oh, and back in 1896 there was also a brief gold rush on Rock Creek that was initially reported to be here (which is how I came to read about it), but turned out to be happening deep in the forest 20 miles upstream of here. So it wasn't an event at the falls, per se, but I only realized that after digging up a bunch of links about it (so to speak), and c'mon, gold rush stuff is always fun, so I kicked it down to the footnote area instead of just deleting it.

One bit of photo advice: The stretch of creek around the falls faces roughly east, so as the afternoon rolls on it's harder and harder to keep the sun out of the frame, and you might be better off visiting in the early morning. I'm not a big morning person, and if you aren't one either there are some decent hotel options in the area. The well-known local golf & destination wedding resort was not a great fit for us, but a lot of people seem to like it.

So you might have seen the "Upper" in the name and now you're wondering about the Lower Falls. The short answer is that it really depends on when you read this. Back in 2007 there was a huge, slow-moving, unstoppable landslide starting in February of that year. Here's a March 2007 Oregonian profile of an elderly neighbor whose house was slowly being torn apart by the slide.

Some striking AP wire photos from May 12th: Another homeowner had tried to move his house back away from the unstable slope, but didn't move it back quite far enough to avoid the massive slide damaging his house beyond repair. They ended up burning the house as practice for the local fire department, which is not that unusual in situations like this. The twist here is that the homeowner was a firefighter in the department, and participated in burning down his own house for work. There's a photo of him watching that could be the dictionary definition of "mixed emotions".

After things settled down a bit, word got out in the regional outdoor community that the lower falls were gone forever, destroyed by the massive landslide. But things erode quickly around here, and 2007 was almost two decades ago, and apparently they've more-or-less returned to a state resembling the pre-slide falls. I mean, I don't have before-and-after photos to compare, but current Google Maps imagery indicates there's a tall waterfall there again.

It turns out this is not even the first time this has happened. Here's a small December 1921 news item titled "Flood Destroys Falls", which actually undersells the scale of what happened. The lower falls were buried by debris and all infrastructure downstream was destroyed and washed away, including an entire hydroelectric plant, which was never rebuilt. A 1956 map of the area shows the dam site still owned by the local public utility district at that point, though they apparently sold it later. I'm not absolutely sure that the new owner turned around and built a house there, or that said house was one of the houses trashed by the next big slide, but it seems kind of probable, doesn't it? There are no really benign forms of geology happening on human timescales; anything that happens quickly is seen as a disaster, even if nobody dies. And then when geology so much as pauses for a few decades everyone forgets all about it, and it always comes as a huge shock when things inevitably start moving again, wash, rinse, repeat.

So I guess what I'm trying to say here is that, from the look of things, I would not bet a penny that 2007 was the last-ever landslide here, which is why I said "it depends" about the Lower Falls. It's there now while I'm writing this, but could be buried in rocks and dirt and once again written off as lost forever by next spring, and could be completely back again by spring 2029. It's anybody's guess really.

So apparently the lower falls and the land between the two falls are also owned by the county, but the only area where you can take photos of it from below isn't public as of late 2024. And Zach Forsyth's waterfall book makes a really great point that photos looking down from the top of a waterfall are almost always a letdown. Often they're just a view of the parking lot, or looking down at a generic chunk of forest, and certainly not worth risking life and limb over. And that chunk of private land is also ground zero for the 2007 landslide, and seems to be zoned to prevent any future structures in that area, I think with the hope that the remaining landowners will eventually get a clue and sell at a price the county can afford. To that end, legend has it that county code enforcement will swoop in and taser you if you so much as snap two Lego bricks together while standing there.

While you're lying there getting tasered and sort of disassociating from the whole mess, you might wonder idly why it's county code enforcement that's tasering you and not someone from the city. To that end, here's a City of Stevenson "critical areas map" from 2018, showing overlapping areas of steep slopes, unstable soils, previous historical landslides, debris hazard areas downstream of known landslide areas, etc., I guess as sort of a guide when figuring out where not to build your dream home. The map also shows that, whether by pure coincidence or incredible foresight slash cynicism, the worst of the hazard area lies juuuust outside city limits, which jog south quite a bit here and just so happen to exclude most of Rock Creek. And as a result of this, the whole Rock Creek landslide situation is strictly a county problem that the city doesn't really have to care about, which is pretty convenient, I'll give them that at least.


So we've covered historical events for the upper and lower falls, but as for Rock Creek overall the most newsworthy happening came back in the summer of 1896 when the creek was the subject of a bona fide (but rather brief) gold rush. Seriously. Here's how it played out:

  • July 30th:
    ONE MORE CRIPPLE CREEK FOUND

    Word has been received that there is considerable excitement at Stevenson, the county seat of Skamania County, opposite the upper cascades, on account of the discovery of gold-bearing quartz. In Rock Creek, about 15 miles back from the Columbia. Parties who were fishing on Rock Creek a few days since say Stevenson was practically deserted, all the men having gone up to the mines. Parties from East Portland discovered the vein, and have been exploring and developing it, and have already a considerable quantity of rock “on the dump”. When they have had a milling test made, they will be able to judge of the value of their discovery.
  • August 2nd:
    There is no question about the richness of the quartz recently discovered on Rock Creek, near Stevenson, says the Dalles Times-Mountaineer. Thursday, Captain Waud was shown specimens of the ore that were streaked with gold, and that were said to assay from $3000 to $4000 to the ton. The captain says the excitement both at Stevenson and Cascade Locks over the new discovery is intense.
  • August 5th, clarifies that the new mining district is 20-25 miles from town, near the origin of the creek near Lookout Mountain. Describes the area as "as inaccessible as could be desired by the most ardent sensationalist". The article continues:
    The ore seems to be rich in gold, silver and copper, and is easy to mine. There has been a number of claims staked out, and the country is full of prospectors, and strikes are reported daily. There are now four tunnels being driven and the ore is showing up better as they go. There is also some placer gold found near by, which is being worked with success. Many new miners are now at Stevenson getting outfits and preparing to go out — mostly from Portland. Pack horses can be obtained at Stevenson, which is the nearest town to the mines.
  • August 6th: "Gold Is In Skamania", recaps the heady events of the past week and interviews one F. Woodworth, an experienced longtime prospector, who immediately bailed out of his boring railroad job and headed to the Rock Creek goldfields, immediately staking out some mining claims and grabbing a sample for the nearest assay office. His sample had just come back from the lab that morning, and was valued at a mere $4/ton, but he took that as a sign of success given how little time and effort he had invested so far. He was headed back to Stevenson after being interviewed, and averred that after his many years of searching, he had finally found the Mother Lode, the key to untold riches, for real this time, not like all the other times he thought the same thing and it didn't pan out, so to speak.
  • Then on August 16th the worst possible thing happened to the gold country at Rock Creek: Not a mine cave-in, or a dynamite accident, or it turned out the whole thing was a big fraud, or there was a mass outbreak of weapons-grade syphillis, or any of the other kinds of confernal tarnation common to gold rushes. Instead, the news came of massive gold discoveries in the far north of Canada, in the area around Dawson City, Yukon. The Klondike Gold Rush was on -- a gold rush so famous they named an ice cream sandwich after it -- and just like that every gold-addled adventurer in America and across the globe, plus everyone else who made steady money off of prospectors, was off to the Arctic wastes in search of the Mother Lode. Which was definitely, absolutely, positively out there this time, if you just had the good luck or intuition to dig in the right place, and if you didn't find it on the first try, maybe the ten-thousandth try would turn out differently.
  • July 1897, a year after the brief mania along Rock Creek, came "Mines of Skamania", an update on the current state of the local industry. It seems partly aimed at the many locals who had run off to Alaska a year earlier and had returned emptyhanded, noting that a fair number of people had found modest-to-moderate quantities of gold all over Skamania County at this point, and you might not get rich but at least a steady-ish income was available, potentially, if you knew what you were doing, and you probably won't freeze solid like poor Sam McGee, or suffer the various other calamities common to the poems of Robert W. Service, and you most likely won't share any of the grim fates of the humans in The Call of the Wild, and then be abandoned by your semi-loyal sled dog, who heads off to run with the wolves. You probably won't even have to turn to crime and then be brought to justice by Sergeant Preston and King the Wonder Dog, and it's equally unlikely you'll find yourself stuck in a lesser John Wayne movie with an earworm soundtrack.

    In short, the Skamania Gold Country just didn't offer the same exotic dangers as its northern competitor, so it may be just as well that the local gold rush ended before producing its own poet laureate. It just wouldn't be the same, somehow. Maybe some scary tales about catching hypothermia even though it's 51 degrees because it's a very humid cold; or maybe the sad tale of a lonely miner being ripped apart by an equally amorous but very clumsy sasquatch. I dunno, maybe there's some potential here in the right hands, but to do it now you'd first have to spend half an hour explaining the Rudely Interrupted Gold Rush that Really Happened Nearby, which kind of ruins the mood.
  • And because some things never change, there's a semi-related coda from 1910. At this point it was time for a very different kind of land rush, with promoters insisting the former goldfields were perfect as orchard country. This was a common thing around the whole Northwest; there was this idea going around that fruit trees were a license to print money, which would pay for that gracious country estate you've always wanted, with virtually zero manual labor. So essentially the same dream that was sold to a lot of Boomers from the 1970s onward about starting their own wineries: Most of the work is simply sitting around in the golden sunset light and endlessly sampling the finished product, and maybe coming up with a genius-level new food pairing every now and then. Just as a general rule, if someone is trying to sell you any variant of farming that's somehow really easy and also profitable and also 100% legal, and they're trying to sell you on it instead of just doing it themselves, they're trying to pick your pocket.

Saturday, November 15, 2025

Baker Creek Falls

Next up we're taking a peek at Baker Creek Falls, a small waterfall in rural Washington County, in the hilly area west of Sherwood. This is part of Metro's Baker Creek Canyon Natural Area, an obscure greeenspace area the agency purchased in 2011 or so. These late summer photos don't really do it justice; a Waymarking page for the falls has a photo of it when it was running at a much higher volume. I meant to go back on an early spring day and get better photos of it but getting there is a bit of a long drive to the far end of the metro area and then a few miles past there, almost into Yamhill County.

This a Metro Natural Area, as opposed to a Nature Park, so there are zero visitor facilities beyond the cute little Natural Area sign (if you can find it) and the agency does absolutely nothing to get the word out about it to potential visitors. Some Natural Areas like this may never get more development than they have now. Others will be upgraded to Nature Parks someday, but not during your lifetime or mine. The thing to understand here is that Metro takes a very long-term view of things, surprising for a government agency in this country. They prioritize buying land above building amenities, on the theory that nobody is making new undeveloped land; what's there now is as much as there will ever be, and it's not going to be any more affordable in the future than it is now.

The good news is that the falls are right next to a road and easy to get to, so you're not going to need much in the way of facilities. Have your favorite driving directions app guide you to the intersection of SW Kruger Rd. and Dutson Dr., which is right at a sorta-hairpin corner on Kruger. This is also where Baker Creek passes under the street. Just west of there, immediately past the bend, there's a flat stretch of shoulder on the westbound side of the road, on the inside of the turn, with enough space for maybe 2-3 regular-size vehicles, or quite a few bikes, or between 0.5 and 2 luxury SUVs. I mention that last bit because this area is a short distance from the vineyards of Yamhill County, and seems to be rapidly filling up with McMansions and hobby farms. So you can kind of sense the urgency of Metro's land-buying efforts here. On the positive side, on the way here you'll see lots of cute llamas and alpacas randomly hanging out watching the world go by, so you can look at them and just ignore the ghastly 6000 square foot Tuscan-Victorian chateaus and whatnot where their people live.

So assuming there's room to park, park there and look for a really obvious unofficial trail heading downhill to the creek. Follow it toward the creek, then look upstream for the waterfall. At this point you can decide for yourself whether it was worth the effort to get here, which is obviously going to depend on the season and how far you had to drive to get to this point. If you're just coming from Sherwood or maybe Tualatin, it probably counts as a cool local attraction, kind of like Cedar Hills Falls in Beaverton. If you're coming from downtown Portland, like I was, it's a lot of trouble to get to for how small it is. I thought it was still worth visiting, but I also recognize that doing things "for the sake of completeness" motivates me a lot more than it does most people, plus even if it had gone completely dry when I visited I'd still get a blog post out of it.

I don't have any news stories to share about the falls, or the creek, or the rest of the general area, but I did come up with a short list of Metro documents and press releases that refer to it, so here we go:

Friday, October 31, 2025

Lower Archer Falls

Next up we're visiting another obscure waterfall on the Washington side of the Columbia Gorge. These photos are of Lower Archer Falls, a 50' waterfall hiding juuuust out of plain sight near SR14, roughly halfway between the little towns of Prindle and Skamania. The unmarked trailhead is literally right across SR14 from the US Forest Service's St. Cloud Day Use Area. Which is an old historic apple orchard plus a stretch of rocky, muddy, sandy semi-beach along the Columbia, but that's a whole other blog post I need to finish. So the thing you need to do is park at St. Cloud, make sure your Northwest Forest Pass is somewhere where Officer Friendly can see it, then follow the entrance road back to SR14, and wait for a gap in traffic so you can mosey across. I meant to take a photo of what you're looking for here, as it appears from across the road, but I apparently forgot to do that. Just look for an unmarked but visible trail directly across from the St. Cloud entrance road. You can see it on Street View here, if you'd like a better idea of what to look for.

If the "Lower" qualifier made you wonder about the others: Yes, there is an (Upper) Archer Falls, well upstream of here, 218' high, and part of a restricted area that's permanently closed to all public access, to hopefully protect a number of rare species including the Larch Mountain salamander. It was later realized that the salamander not only existed south of the Columbia River but was much more common there, but the closure was already in effect at that point, and there seems to be a general principle in place to never relax closure rules, period, even if the original rationale behind them turns out to be a bit overstated.

Zach Forsyth's waterfall book also lists a "Middle Archer Falls", maybe 10-20' high and a short distance (as the crow flies) upstream from the lower falls. I don't have any photos of it to show you, because first you have to get above the lower falls, which you do via an absurdly narrow stairway seemingly made of piano keys. Once you're above the lower falls the (unofficial, community-maintained) trail turns east and away from Archer Creek for a bit in order to stay on public land as it continues uphill, and you have to bushwhack back to the creek to find the waterfall. And when I put it that way it hardly sounds worthwhile, but I have this nagging suspicion that I may have to go look for it at some point, and at that point I'll try to explain why it was worth all the extra trouble and why you ought to give it a try too. So there's that to look forward to, I guess. The only other mention I've seen of the middle falls is a brief mention on a Ropewiki page, and even they have no photos of it, or details on how to get to it. A recent PacificNW Hiker video about Lower Archer includes a drone shot that rises above the top of the falls, and you can see what -- from that perspective -- just looks like an upper tier to the lower falls, but it might be Forsyth's middle falls.

Before going I looked at Skamania County GIS to double-check that this is all public land, and then check the Forest Service interactive trail map and see if this is an official trail or not. The answers are a.) yes, and b.) no.

So, a thing I like to do before looking for obscure stuff on the Washington side of the Gorge is fire up the local county GIS system (Skamania County in this case) and double-check that the place I'm interested in -- and the trail to it -- really is public property. This isn't just because I like looking at maps; much of the Washington side is kind of a crazy quilt of state, local, federal, and private land. And then in the 2000s and early 2010s there were a lot of people on the internet posting a lot of cool waterfall photos from places they weren't, strictly speaking, allowed to be, and scored serious Valuable Internet Points in the process, but that was then, and the fact that some hipsters got away with it in 2007 doesn't really hold up in court. In this case, fortunately the answer is yes, the Forest Service owns the whole area we're visiting, having bought it off the Burlington Northern railroad back in 1994.

It's also useful sometimes to pull up the Forest Service's interactive trail map, and if it's an official trail save the relevant area as a pdf in case cell reception is no bueno somewhere. Except that although this is Forest Service land, this isn't a Forest Service trail. Apparently there's a group of dedicated local volunteers that maintains trails in the Archer Mountain area, wayyy uphill from here, so this trail might be their doing. It seems to be an unofficial but longstanding Forest Service policy -- locally, at least -- that if you feel a real calling to do trail construction and maintenance in your spare time, they'll go ahead and let you have a go at it, so long as you do a reasonably professional job of it, and are never a source of bad publicity. I'm sure they can't put that in writing, but it generally seems to work here, and it seems to work for a whole network of forest trails around North Bonneville, a few miles east of here, and it seems to have worked for about a century or so with the web of trails back behind Angels Rest on the Oregon side and the trail up Wind Mountain on the Washington side.

A short distance further upstream just past the Middle(?) falls, the USFS land runs out and the creek passes through a parcel owned by someone or something called "The Lightbearers". The property records don't include an address, but I think that refers to a longstanding new-agey group out of Seattle. And if I have that wrong, it might be a similarly-named fundie group out of Tennessee, or even an evangelical landlord company, or someone else entirely. It frankly sounds like a name you'd adopt if you and a few friends took up LARPing as YA fantasy novel wizards. Or (again, just going by the name) possibly they're a cabal of especially creepy Buffy villains, similar to The Gentlemen. In any event the trail swerves east at that point to avoid the whole thing, whatever it is.

Due to the complicated land ownership situation, a lot of places that would be top destinations on the Oregon side were either private property until fairly recently (like Lower Archer was until 1994), or even now are gated off and inaccessible, like nearby Prindle Falls, which is anywhere between 250' and 435' high depending on who you ask. So over the years, whether people visited a given place or not (and whether it showed up in print anywhere) was kind of a function of whether current landowners were friendly, or alternately how emboldened (or you might say entitled) people felt in visiting without asking. I mention all this because I think it's why I had never heard of Lower Archer (or a lot of the other Washington-side falls) until a few years ago. A lot of this info traditionally got around strictly by word-of-mouth, and putting it in print for strangers to read was a great way to infuriate a landowner who had just about tolerated a few rare visitors who were in the know, and I just never happened to know anyone who knew someone, if you know what I mean.

As a data point, I dug out my stack of old Columbia Gorge hiking and waterfall guidebooks from the late 1960s thru the 1980s, and none of them say anything about waterfalls in the Archer Creek area. Or anywhere else on the Washington side, for that matter, apart from the couple of well-known ones along the Hamilton Mountain trail. And at least some of them had to have known about the others. At the very least someone would have told the Lowes about some of the more obscure places, Another curiosity is that despite all the official hikes and expeditions and whatnot setting off in search of (Upper) Archer Falls over the years, not one historical source -- not a single one -- mentions the lower falls here. You'd think someone would have mentioned it in passing at some point, but no dice.

Anyway, here's a timeline of news about the Archer Creek area. As usual, most of the links go to the Multnomah County Library's local newspaper database, and reading them for yourself requires a library card. Which you should already have anyway if you live here. But if you aren't from around here, your local public or university library miiiight have access to the same scanned papers as part of a nationwide database. The links here still won't work, but you may still be able to find the articles by searching on the topic and the given month and year.

Anyway, here goes:

  • Our story begins in the summer of 1901, when a local scientific expedition climbed to the very rim of the gorge and explored the high mountaintops of Archer Mountain and Table Mountain. The party included geologists, photographers, an Oregonian reporter, and even a visiting archeologist from Chicago's Field Museum. Transportation was provided by the steamboat Regulator, which even as late as 1901 was still basically the only connection between this corner of the Washington side of the Gorge and the outside world.

    The expedition proposed to determine the truth or falsity of the "Bridge of the Gods Hypothesis". The present-day version of the idea is that debris from a massive landslide on Table Mountain, on the north side of the river, once completely dammed the river, and once that blockage finally failed, there was still a huge amount of debris in the river here for a long time afterward, so much so that for a while you could cross the river by carefully hopping rock to rock without getting your feet wet. The 1901 version was different, and was what you might call the "Maximal 'Bridge of the Gods' Hypothesis": This idea holds that, once upon a time, a natural rock arch spanned the Columbia. And not a minimal span right there in the narrowest stretch of the river, not a stone version of the present-day bridge. Oh no, they liked to think big in those days, and so imagined a truly stupendous majestic arch connecting the 3417' summit of Table Mountain to some TBD mountaintop on the Oregon side, the closest of which is fully 5 miles to the south.

    For a little context, Wikipedia (and their primary source in this case, the Natural Arch and Bridge Society, which exists) inform us the longest known natural arch in existence today is one in China that's about 400 feet long, so the maximal one here would have been around 66 times longer, had it existed. It turns out the world's longest artificial arch bridge is also in China, and the summit-to-summit bridge here would have exceeded it by a mere factor of 14.

    Frankly the only bridge that comes to mind that even approaches this is the fictional one from Tom Swift and his Repelatron Skyway (1963), in which Tom and the gang rescue a troubled foreign aid project in the friendly African nation of Ngombia, building a modern USA-style freeway across the country's vast impassable malarial swamps via the magic of antigravity. When I read this as a kid, as a hand-me-down childrens book, I wondered why anybody would still need freeways if antigravity was a thing that existed, as the book never bothered to explain that pesky detail.

  • Anyway, the adventurers' initial trip report put a brave face on it, but the details tell us the expedition was a big mess. On day 1, the group ascended Archer Mountain without too much chaos, other than the expedition's one and only guide bailing out early due to a foot injury. The party spent a good part of the day ransacking the "Indian mounds" on Archer Mountain looking for artifacts, but didn't find anything of value, before continuing to the summit. Where the photographers were disappointed to find that distant Cascade peaks were obscured by forest fire smoke.
  • The trip up Table Mountain the next day was what you might call... under-planned, if you were in a charitable mood. Our brave explorers set out without map or guide, and packed for the hike on the assumption there would be plenty of drinkable water to be had along the way and there was no need to bring a lot of it along. You can probably already guess where this is going. They spent most of the day wandering around lost and thirsty, then ran out of daylight, and spent the night somewhere near the summit without blankets, before eventually finding their way home the next day. Afterward, our conquering heroes told everyone who would listen that the real problem was obviously the mountain, which had turned out to be vastly taller and harder to climb than anyone had known previously. Which, of course, was an important scientific discovery in itself. A follow-up article on the climb quotes one of the explorers as estimating Table Mountain at up to 7000 feet high, roughly even with the tree line on Mount Hood, where in reality it's only about half that height. For some reason I was reminded of the classic SNL sketch where Bill Murray plays an aging, out-of-shape Hercules, making various excuses for his inability to lift a nearby boulder.
  • To put this adventure in a wider context, 1901 was also right around the start of what historians call the Heroic Age of Antarctic Exploration, the golden age of fearless leaders like Roald Amundsen, Robert Falcon Scott, and Ernest Shackleton, and in fact the latter two were in the early stages of the 1901-1904 Discovery Expedition right around the same time our local heroes were bumbling around the Gorge. So that's more or less the model our bold adventurers were aiming for, I think. Imagine, if you will, the many perils of exploring near the 45th parallel, balanced precariously halfway between the polar wastes of the Arctic and the treacherous tropical jungles along the equator...
  • As far as I can tell they never mounted a followup expedition to document the surprisingly rarefied heights of Table Mountain and the mysterious unknown lands beyond, and thus passed the brief Heroic Age of Archer Creek Watershed Exploration. In fact, after the expedition there was a nearly thirty-year gap before Archer Creek or Archer Mountain appeared in the news again, at which point the area was reachable from the outside world by automobile via a very expensive road (present-day SR14) and also by a very expensive railroad line down near river level. This is the same rail line you cross on your way from your car to the trailhead here; it doesn't look very fancy because they spent most of their money on tunnels, and didn't focus so much on general aesthetics. There are a couple of points further east along the line where you might see the same long train threaded through three tunnels in a row, one after the next.
  • A November 1901 article titled "How the Indians were Decimated" notes that the wave of disease that swept through the northwest and devastated tribes across the region happened largely before settlers arrived, and the worst of the diseases was apparently something modern science couldn't identify by its symptoms, and in short the whole horrific episode might be Not Our Fault, or at least there was juuust enough doubt about what happened that there was no point in anybody feeling bad over it now. He then goes on to relate various Native stories, anglicized to match readers' expectations. I mention all of this because his article touched on Archer Mountain briefly, stating confidently that the mounds or pits near the top were actually fortifications, and then estimating it would take a large army to staff and defend such a fortress. So apparently this was a common idea at one point. Mostly I figured I should note that the article has problematic contents, before anyone clicks looking for more info on the "Indian fortress" hypothesis. I think I've mentioned this somewhere else before, but my impression is that the fortress idea peaked in popularity (both in academia and with the general public) shortly after World War I, when ideas of vast trenches and fortifications were still fresh in people's minds.
  • A January 1928 news item about an upcoming Mazamas hike:

    A.H. Marshall will lead the Mazamas on a hike next Sunday in the Archer Creek district. Members will leave Portland on the North Bank railroad at 7:30am and will detrain at St. Cloud. From St. Cloud the hikers will follow Cable creek past Big falls to the top of North mountain, then to the head of Archer canyon and down the canyon past Archer falls

    To explain that a bit more, Cable Creek, or Gable Creek, is the next watershed west of Archer Creek, and it has at least one big waterfall too, but nobody is really sure now whether the correct name is "Cable" or "Gable", and there is historical support for both versions. More recently, in an apparent effort to resolve this confusion, the creek was officially renamed as "Good Bear Creek" a few years ago, but unfortunately it's a weird and dumb-sounding name, and a lot of people would argue there's no such thing as a Good Bear, and wherever you stand on that particular topic, most maps haven't been updated, and I've never seen anyone using the new name.

  • Notices about organized group hikes along Archer Creek or up Archer Mountain were fairly common from the 1920s and early 1930s, tapering off into the early 1960s. Most of these announcements were fairly brief and to the point, while the post-hike ones could be a bit more entertaining. The route varied a bit: Often it was straight up Archer Creek from SR14 (or the St. Cloud train station, before that) to the main falls and back down, but sometimes they changed it up and hopped over to Gable/Cable Creek for the return leg, checking out the big waterfall over there too. I gather not everyone was aware of the falls on the other creek, since a couple of the more excitable groups came away elated and telling anyone who would listen that they had discovered it. It was almost always the same guy guiding these groups for several decades, so maybe 'stumbling across' the falls on Gable Creek was part of his trail guide schtick, allowing his charges to believe they were great wilderness explorers for a while. I dunno. Anyway, here's a list of a bunch of examples, if you're interested.

  • Sometime in 1971, a group of Portland-area hippies decided to go back to the land (because 1971), bought a chunk of then-cheap land near (Upper) Archer Falls and started a commune (because 1971). This went unreported and unnoticed by the local papers at the time, because if you want to live in peace and harmony forever with all your friends, telling The Man about it is probably the last thing you want to do. So you might be wondering how those dreams turned out, and we'll get around to that in a bit. But on the general topic of late-20th Century alternate living arrangements, let me point you at a fascinating 2021 GQ article about some of the stragglers still hanging on to the old ways in Northern California; a Brooklyn Rail piece about the same general time and place; and a 2019 Messy Nessy Chic article about one group that somehow survived to the present day, morphing over time into a sort of hybrid organic farm / yoga retreat / health food store chain. But I digress.
  • An April 28th 1970 letter to the editor pointing out that a recent article on the little-known waterfalls of the Washington side of the Gorge neglected to mention the upper Archer Falls, which (he explained) were accessible by a scramble up the creek starting at St. Cloud. He didn't mention the smaller waterfall on the way there, so someone making the trip just going by the info in this letter could easily have turned back at the lower falls thinking it was the main one.
  • The Forest Service bought land at Archer Mountain starting in 1987 along with a bunch of other things, though county property records I referenced up above say this wasn't purchased until 1994.
  • Trail construction by Friends of the Columbia River Gorge for Earth Day 1991
  • The St Cloud area opened to the public in November 1994 along with the Sams-Walker area a mile or two to the east. The article dutifully lists the modest charms of the two places, but makes no mention of Lower Archer Falls.
  • 1996 Steve Duin column about an ongoing court battle over High Valley Farm, the very same High Valley Farm we last saw in 1971. As with a lot of these communities, there were a few diehards left at the place, while everyone else had gone their separate ways years ago, and people didn't have much in common anymore except for the big chunk of land they all still co-owned. Some of them wanted to sell the land and split the proceeds and move on, but couldn't unless everyone else agreed, and there were objections, especially by the few remaining residents, and it ended up in court. Evidently some kind of deal was worked out in the end, because that's the same land that's now part of the strict no-entry state nature preserve, and I've seen rumors that some of the holdouts are still living up there as part of the deal, and maybe that's true, and maybe that's the real reason behind the closed area. Or maybe people (myself included) are half-remembering some of the plot points from M. Night Shyamalan's The Village (2004), which I won't explain any further because spoilers.
  • A 1998 Terry Richard column asking people to name their favorite Gorge waterfall. One interviewee, a resident of Prindle on the Washington side of the gorge, piped up to explain that the Washington side has waterfalls too, they're just really obscure and hard to get to and you probably haven't heard of them.
  • A 2008 Terry Richard column explaining the Gorge scenic highlights you can enjoy while speeding along I-84 and not stopping anywhere. The guide says Archer Mountain is the prominent peak along the north shore around mileposts 33-34.
  • A 2011 Oregonian article told the normies about OregonHikers (still called PortlandHikers back then), right around the peak of the site's traffic and interesting content. Or just before the peak, or a year or two after, depending on who you ask, but my money's on post-peak if only because appearing in the Oregonian instantly makes anything a bit too mainstream and uncool. In any case, Archer Mountain/Creek/Falls gets a quick mention as one place the site had drawn a wave of renewed attention to.
  • And in 2017, there was a small wildfire on Archer Mountain, started by embers from the Eagle Creek fire being blown across the river. Fortunately this fire didn't take off like the Oregon one did, and was controlled and extinguished fairly quickly.